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32 Yolks: From My Mother's Table to Working the Line
NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER � Hailed by Anthony Bourdain as “heartbreaking, horrifying, poignant, and inspiring,� 32 Yolks is the brave and affecting coming-of-age story about the making of a French chef, from the culinary icon behind the renowned New York City restaurant Le Bernardin.
NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY NPR
In an industry where celebrity chefs are known as much for their salty talk and quick tempers as their food, Eric Ripert stands out. The winner of four James Beard Awards, co-owner and chef of a world-renowned restaurant, and recipient of countless Michelin stars, Ripert embodies elegance and culinary perfection. But before the accolades, before he even knew how to make a proper hollandaise sauce, Eric Ripert was a lonely young boy in the south of France whose life was falling apart.
Ripert’s parents divorced when he was six, separating him from the father he idolized and replacing him with a cold, bullying stepfather who insisted that Ripert be sent away to boarding school. A few years later, Ripert’s father died on a hiking trip. Through these tough times, the one thing that gave Ripert comfort was food. Told that boys had no place in the kitchen, Ripert would instead watch from the doorway as his mother rolled couscous by hand or his grandmother pressed out the buttery dough for the treat he loved above all others, tarte aux pommes . When an eccentric local chef took him under his wing, an eleven-year-old Ripert realized that food was more than just an It was his calling. That passion would carry him through the drudgery of culinary school and into the high-pressure world of Paris’s most elite restaurants, where Ripert discovered that learning to cook was the easy part—surviving the line was the battle.
Taking us from Eric Ripert’s childhood in the south of France and the mountains of Andorra into the demanding kitchens of such legendary Parisian chefs as Joël Robuchon and Dominique Bouchet, until, at the age of twenty-four, Ripert made his way to the United States, 32 Yolks is the tender and richly told story of how one of our greatest living chefs found himself—and his home—in the kitchen.
Praise for 32 Yolks
“Passionate, poetical . . . What makes 32 Yolks compelling is the honesty and laudable humility Ripert brings to the telling.� � Chicago Tribune
“With a vulnerability and honesty that is breathtaking . . . Ripert takes us into the mind of a boy with thoughts so sweet they will cause you to weep.� � The Wall Street Journal
NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY NPR
In an industry where celebrity chefs are known as much for their salty talk and quick tempers as their food, Eric Ripert stands out. The winner of four James Beard Awards, co-owner and chef of a world-renowned restaurant, and recipient of countless Michelin stars, Ripert embodies elegance and culinary perfection. But before the accolades, before he even knew how to make a proper hollandaise sauce, Eric Ripert was a lonely young boy in the south of France whose life was falling apart.
Ripert’s parents divorced when he was six, separating him from the father he idolized and replacing him with a cold, bullying stepfather who insisted that Ripert be sent away to boarding school. A few years later, Ripert’s father died on a hiking trip. Through these tough times, the one thing that gave Ripert comfort was food. Told that boys had no place in the kitchen, Ripert would instead watch from the doorway as his mother rolled couscous by hand or his grandmother pressed out the buttery dough for the treat he loved above all others, tarte aux pommes . When an eccentric local chef took him under his wing, an eleven-year-old Ripert realized that food was more than just an It was his calling. That passion would carry him through the drudgery of culinary school and into the high-pressure world of Paris’s most elite restaurants, where Ripert discovered that learning to cook was the easy part—surviving the line was the battle.
Taking us from Eric Ripert’s childhood in the south of France and the mountains of Andorra into the demanding kitchens of such legendary Parisian chefs as Joël Robuchon and Dominique Bouchet, until, at the age of twenty-four, Ripert made his way to the United States, 32 Yolks is the tender and richly told story of how one of our greatest living chefs found himself—and his home—in the kitchen.
Praise for 32 Yolks
“Passionate, poetical . . . What makes 32 Yolks compelling is the honesty and laudable humility Ripert brings to the telling.� � Chicago Tribune
“With a vulnerability and honesty that is breathtaking . . . Ripert takes us into the mind of a boy with thoughts so sweet they will cause you to weep.� � The Wall Street Journal
247 pages, Hardcover
First published April 12, 2016
391 people are currently reading
7,168 people want to read
About the author
Eric Ripert
18books241followersEric Ripert is grateful for his early exposure to two cuisines—that of Antibes, France, where he was born, and of Andorra, a small country just over the Spanish border, where he moved as a young child. His family instilled their own passion for food in the young Ripert, and at the age of 15, he left home to attend culinary school in Perpignan. At 17, he moved to Paris and cooked at the legendary La Tour D’Argent before taking a position at the Michelin three-starred Jamin. After fulfilling his military service, Ripert returned to Jamin under Joel Robuchon to serve as chef poissonier.
In 1989, Ripert seized the opportunity to work under Jean-Louis Palladin as sous-chef at Jean Louis at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, D.C. Ripert moved to New York in 1991, working briefly as David Bouley’s sous-chef before Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze recruited him as chef for Le Bernardin. Ripert has since firmly established himself as one of New York’s—and the world’s—great chefs.
In 1995, at just 29 years old, Ripert earned a four-star rating from the The New York Times. Ten years later and for the fourth consecutive time, Le Bernardin again earned the The New York Times� highest rating of four stars, becoming the only restaurant to maintain this superior status for this length of time, without ever dropping a star.
In 1997, GQ named Le Bernardin the best restaurant in America, and in 2007, the magazine named Le Bernardin one of “Seven Food Temples of the World.� In 2005, New York Magazine declared Le Bernardin the #1 restaurant in the city, awarding it 5 five stars in its inaugural restaurant rating issue—a position it still holds today. Also in 2005, Bon Appétit declared Ripert’s Butter-Poached Lobster with Tarragon and Champagne its “Dish of the Year.�
Le Bernardin continues to receive universal critical acclaim for its food and service. The Michelin Guide, which made its New York debut in 2005, honored Chef Ripert and Le Bernardin with its highest rating of 3 three stars in 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008. The Zagat Guide has recognized the restaurant as the “Best Food� in New York City for the last eight consecutive years. In 1998, the James Beard Foundation named Le Bernardin “Outstanding Restaurant of the Year� and Eric Ripert “Top Chef in New York City.� In 1999, the restaurant received the “Outstanding Service� award from the Beard Foundation, and in 2003, the Foundation foundation named Ripert “Outstanding Chef in the United States.� In 2009 Ripert was granted the rank of Chevallier in France’s Légion d’Honneur.
Ripert has served as guest judge (and “fan favorite�) on Bravo’s Top Chef for two seasons and has appeared on the Late Show with David Letterman, The Charlie Rose Show, The Ellen DeGeneres Show, TODAY, Live with Regis and Kelly, and The Martha Stewart Show. In fall 2008, Ripert published On The Line with Artisan, his second book with the publisher. Ripert will star in his own television series, AVEC ERIC, airing on public television in September of 2009.
Ripert is the chair of City Harvest’s Food Council, working to bring together New York’s top chefs and restaurateurs to raise funds and increase the quality and quantity of food donations to New York’s neediest. When not in the kitchen, Ripert enjoys good tequila and peace and quiet. He lives on the Upper East Side and Sag Harbor with his wife and young son
In 1989, Ripert seized the opportunity to work under Jean-Louis Palladin as sous-chef at Jean Louis at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, D.C. Ripert moved to New York in 1991, working briefly as David Bouley’s sous-chef before Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze recruited him as chef for Le Bernardin. Ripert has since firmly established himself as one of New York’s—and the world’s—great chefs.
In 1995, at just 29 years old, Ripert earned a four-star rating from the The New York Times. Ten years later and for the fourth consecutive time, Le Bernardin again earned the The New York Times� highest rating of four stars, becoming the only restaurant to maintain this superior status for this length of time, without ever dropping a star.
In 1997, GQ named Le Bernardin the best restaurant in America, and in 2007, the magazine named Le Bernardin one of “Seven Food Temples of the World.� In 2005, New York Magazine declared Le Bernardin the #1 restaurant in the city, awarding it 5 five stars in its inaugural restaurant rating issue—a position it still holds today. Also in 2005, Bon Appétit declared Ripert’s Butter-Poached Lobster with Tarragon and Champagne its “Dish of the Year.�
Le Bernardin continues to receive universal critical acclaim for its food and service. The Michelin Guide, which made its New York debut in 2005, honored Chef Ripert and Le Bernardin with its highest rating of 3 three stars in 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008. The Zagat Guide has recognized the restaurant as the “Best Food� in New York City for the last eight consecutive years. In 1998, the James Beard Foundation named Le Bernardin “Outstanding Restaurant of the Year� and Eric Ripert “Top Chef in New York City.� In 1999, the restaurant received the “Outstanding Service� award from the Beard Foundation, and in 2003, the Foundation foundation named Ripert “Outstanding Chef in the United States.� In 2009 Ripert was granted the rank of Chevallier in France’s Légion d’Honneur.
Ripert has served as guest judge (and “fan favorite�) on Bravo’s Top Chef for two seasons and has appeared on the Late Show with David Letterman, The Charlie Rose Show, The Ellen DeGeneres Show, TODAY, Live with Regis and Kelly, and The Martha Stewart Show. In fall 2008, Ripert published On The Line with Artisan, his second book with the publisher. Ripert will star in his own television series, AVEC ERIC, airing on public television in September of 2009.
Ripert is the chair of City Harvest’s Food Council, working to bring together New York’s top chefs and restaurateurs to raise funds and increase the quality and quantity of food donations to New York’s neediest. When not in the kitchen, Ripert enjoys good tequila and peace and quiet. He lives on the Upper East Side and Sag Harbor with his wife and young son
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 755 reviews
May 12, 2016
I like to cook, buy the best ingredients available to me and think I am a pretty good at it. Or so my family says. But to be this caliber of a chef liking it not enough, passion os required, the passion required to cook for sixteen or more hours of a day. That I don't have the desire to do.
Saw Chef Eric Ripert on Top Chef, plus I like reading books about food, heck I really like food. He grew up with a mother who created wonderful food, had grandmothers who also cooked well, though differently. Had an erratic home life due to his stepfather.so animosity but took to hanging around a wonderful chef who took him under his wing. He could already see his passion for food. The kitchens he worked in, the cooking academy he attended, what he learned, what he did not but later learned under some ferocious chefs. The stress he suffered. All so interesting but am glad it was not me. Couldn't have withstood the pressure he did, but admire that there are those who can.
A very good book on the making of a chef, a chef that can cook and create in Michelin starred restaurants. Originally from Andorra and Paris, he would make his name in the states. Loved everything about this book, so interesting and insightful, a glimpse into a world and career that I knew little of.
ARC from Netgalley.
Saw Chef Eric Ripert on Top Chef, plus I like reading books about food, heck I really like food. He grew up with a mother who created wonderful food, had grandmothers who also cooked well, though differently. Had an erratic home life due to his stepfather.so animosity but took to hanging around a wonderful chef who took him under his wing. He could already see his passion for food. The kitchens he worked in, the cooking academy he attended, what he learned, what he did not but later learned under some ferocious chefs. The stress he suffered. All so interesting but am glad it was not me. Couldn't have withstood the pressure he did, but admire that there are those who can.
A very good book on the making of a chef, a chef that can cook and create in Michelin starred restaurants. Originally from Andorra and Paris, he would make his name in the states. Loved everything about this book, so interesting and insightful, a glimpse into a world and career that I knew little of.
ARC from Netgalley.
January 13, 2019
I like to cook and I like to eat, and I like to read food memoirs. I was unfamiliar with this French chef's name and reputation, but had heard of his legendary New York restaurant, Le Bernadin. I happened upon this book, and it turned out to be a good one. He had a difficult childhood, but an early mentor who was a local chef in his little French village. Jacques would let the six year old Eric sit on a stool and watch him prep and cook. Eric was hooked and never looked back. He went on to work in the kitchen of the famous Joel Robuchon in Paris, then to America to eventually end up as the owner of Le Bernadin. Describing the stress, long hours, and absolute terror and degradation of restaurant kitchens reminded me of Anthony Bourdain's first book. Not for me, but apparently absolutely necessary to get those coveted Michelin stars.
About halfway through this memoir, I checked out Eric Ripert on Wikipedia to see pictures and get background information. It turns out he was not only Anthony Bourdain's best friend, but the one who found him in his hotel room after his suicide.
About halfway through this memoir, I checked out Eric Ripert on Wikipedia to see pictures and get background information. It turns out he was not only Anthony Bourdain's best friend, but the one who found him in his hotel room after his suicide.
January 31, 2021
I was going to skip this chef memoir but then someone in my Around the World group pointed out that he spent a hefty chunk of his childhood and young adult years in Andorra. Books from Andorra translated into English are very hard to come by so this may be as close as I can get.
I know of Eric Ripert of course, first from his friendship with Tony Bourdain and second from Jen-on-Top-Chef who worked for him at Le Bernadin, a restaurant that has consistently been given top awards and reviews, but closed early in the COVID wave and has remained closed since (I hope they are able to reopen someday.) I knew he was a long-practicing Buddhist and that he started around the time he arrived in New York. I knew the same year Tony died, Le Bernadin was awarded the top restaurant in the world! So I realize I know more than I thought, but I didn't know about his childhood. I had the impression that he grew up in the Alps, skiing and eating cheese.
This memoir is only the years up until he leaves for New York, from his idyllic childhood until his father dies. He confronts some challenges with a bullying stepfather and a year in boarding school, but he also has a mother who taught him about quality and perfection (and great food), knew good chefs and farmers as friends, could walk out the door and go hiking (and did), and wore designer clothing because of his mother's boutique. His family connections get him into a school that trains chefs/cooks but also waiters, a much more respected career in France than other places, and also get him a cush job when his military service comes up (where he worked as the officer's waiter after rejecting his cook job due to low quality ingredients.) I feel his privilege should be recognized because although it is indisputable that he has worked incredibly hard and endured incredible challenges, many of the opportunities that feel like "right place right time" really weren't, even if he took advantage of them to their finest. Kudos to him for sticking through the challenges; that is fortitude few of us would have.
All because of this, by his mid-20s he had worked both at La Tour d'Argent AND at almost every station in Joël Robuchon's restaurant, during the time it was given three Michelin stars. The descriptions of the precision and demanding atmosphere of that time are worth the entire book, and honestly I've worked in restaurants and can't fathom what you have to put yourself through to get to that level of speed and accuracy (and keep your sanity.) (Check out this that shows a few pictures of the perfect dishes, it's the one with the dots that is narrated in detail in the book.)
As for Andorra, it would be impossible to read this book and not understand how important that place is to Chef Ripert's internal strength and integrity, a hearty place full of real people to keep him grounded.
"It would take time for me to see that my mother had given me a gift by bringing me to Andorra. Growing up in a small town, with a mother whose business was central to the city, meant that I was surrounded by characters like Jacques and Madame Amparo. They knew me, and what’s more, they watched out for me, and dreamed for me of a life beyond the mountain range. Ask me now what I own and I can tell you with confidence that among my richest possessions are the memories I have of the people of Andorra, people like Madame Amparo, who made our village not just a place between France and Spain, but also a bridge between the stark reality of my present and the rich possibility of my future."
"...Each task was a lot like hiking in Andorra. There was only one way to go—up. All of those years of climbing mountains had given me an instinct for the ascent, a sense of how to pace myself, how to structure my approach—not through sprints to the top, but slowly and over time."
"In Andorra in the fall, I also helped my mother put up the wild mushrooms that we harvested in our special spots in the mountains around our home."
"You’re going to America and you will never come back to Andorra in the same way.�
I know of Eric Ripert of course, first from his friendship with Tony Bourdain and second from Jen-on-Top-Chef who worked for him at Le Bernadin, a restaurant that has consistently been given top awards and reviews, but closed early in the COVID wave and has remained closed since (I hope they are able to reopen someday.) I knew he was a long-practicing Buddhist and that he started around the time he arrived in New York. I knew the same year Tony died, Le Bernadin was awarded the top restaurant in the world! So I realize I know more than I thought, but I didn't know about his childhood. I had the impression that he grew up in the Alps, skiing and eating cheese.
This memoir is only the years up until he leaves for New York, from his idyllic childhood until his father dies. He confronts some challenges with a bullying stepfather and a year in boarding school, but he also has a mother who taught him about quality and perfection (and great food), knew good chefs and farmers as friends, could walk out the door and go hiking (and did), and wore designer clothing because of his mother's boutique. His family connections get him into a school that trains chefs/cooks but also waiters, a much more respected career in France than other places, and also get him a cush job when his military service comes up (where he worked as the officer's waiter after rejecting his cook job due to low quality ingredients.) I feel his privilege should be recognized because although it is indisputable that he has worked incredibly hard and endured incredible challenges, many of the opportunities that feel like "right place right time" really weren't, even if he took advantage of them to their finest. Kudos to him for sticking through the challenges; that is fortitude few of us would have.
All because of this, by his mid-20s he had worked both at La Tour d'Argent AND at almost every station in Joël Robuchon's restaurant, during the time it was given three Michelin stars. The descriptions of the precision and demanding atmosphere of that time are worth the entire book, and honestly I've worked in restaurants and can't fathom what you have to put yourself through to get to that level of speed and accuracy (and keep your sanity.) (Check out this that shows a few pictures of the perfect dishes, it's the one with the dots that is narrated in detail in the book.)
As for Andorra, it would be impossible to read this book and not understand how important that place is to Chef Ripert's internal strength and integrity, a hearty place full of real people to keep him grounded.
"It would take time for me to see that my mother had given me a gift by bringing me to Andorra. Growing up in a small town, with a mother whose business was central to the city, meant that I was surrounded by characters like Jacques and Madame Amparo. They knew me, and what’s more, they watched out for me, and dreamed for me of a life beyond the mountain range. Ask me now what I own and I can tell you with confidence that among my richest possessions are the memories I have of the people of Andorra, people like Madame Amparo, who made our village not just a place between France and Spain, but also a bridge between the stark reality of my present and the rich possibility of my future."
"...Each task was a lot like hiking in Andorra. There was only one way to go—up. All of those years of climbing mountains had given me an instinct for the ascent, a sense of how to pace myself, how to structure my approach—not through sprints to the top, but slowly and over time."
"In Andorra in the fall, I also helped my mother put up the wild mushrooms that we harvested in our special spots in the mountains around our home."
"You’re going to America and you will never come back to Andorra in the same way.�
April 20, 2023
Audiobook�.read by Peter Ganim
�..7 hours and 26 minutes
Synopsis:
“Hailed by Anthony Bourdain as heartbreaking, horrifying, poignant, and inspiring. �32 Yolks� is the brave and affecting coming-of-age story about the making of a French chef, from the culinary icon behind the renowned New York City restaurant Le Bernardin�.
—New York Times
Named one of the best books of the year by NPR
(I understand why!)
I thoroughly enjoyed learning about Eric Ripert�.(I knew nothing about him until this book)�.
‘Parts� in the beginning -his early childhood- was very sad � (divorced parents, family, boarding school horrors, abuse, loss, loneliness)�.
but Eric had my heart �.from beginning to end.
When Eric shared about being a young boy, watching his mother or grandmother cooking so eloquently�.. so in awe of them�
he was beginning to learned not only about focus, discipline, technique, but the fundamentals of great flavors and sophisticated tastes.
He later shares about culinary French school. Fascinating rigor!
For those who are not familiar with Eric Ripert, (chef, author, TV personally) �. as I wasn’t, �. but I suppose most of you are familiar�..
he specializes in French cuisine. He has 3 Michelin Stars.
This book is wonderful�
Listening to the audiobook was a life journey engaging companion pleasure.
Eric is humble, kind, sweet, real, likable.
�.This memoir was captivating, heartfelt� even a little majestic.
�..7 hours and 26 minutes
Synopsis:
“Hailed by Anthony Bourdain as heartbreaking, horrifying, poignant, and inspiring. �32 Yolks� is the brave and affecting coming-of-age story about the making of a French chef, from the culinary icon behind the renowned New York City restaurant Le Bernardin�.
—New York Times
Named one of the best books of the year by NPR
(I understand why!)
I thoroughly enjoyed learning about Eric Ripert�.(I knew nothing about him until this book)�.
‘Parts� in the beginning -his early childhood- was very sad � (divorced parents, family, boarding school horrors, abuse, loss, loneliness)�.
but Eric had my heart �.from beginning to end.
When Eric shared about being a young boy, watching his mother or grandmother cooking so eloquently�.. so in awe of them�
he was beginning to learned not only about focus, discipline, technique, but the fundamentals of great flavors and sophisticated tastes.
He later shares about culinary French school. Fascinating rigor!
For those who are not familiar with Eric Ripert, (chef, author, TV personally) �. as I wasn’t, �. but I suppose most of you are familiar�..
he specializes in French cuisine. He has 3 Michelin Stars.
This book is wonderful�
Listening to the audiobook was a life journey engaging companion pleasure.
Eric is humble, kind, sweet, real, likable.
�.This memoir was captivating, heartfelt� even a little majestic.
July 11, 2017
"Still, by mastering those thirty-two yolks, I had done something right. I was becoming a real cook."
This is not just a pretty cover and fitting title, it's a damn good coming-of-age memoir. I can only hope that Ripert teams up with Veronica Chambers again to write about his life in America.
This is not just a pretty cover and fitting title, it's a damn good coming-of-age memoir. I can only hope that Ripert teams up with Veronica Chambers again to write about his life in America.
May 16, 2016
Unlike many who would be attracted to this book, I started reading not really aware of who Eric Ripert really is. I don't generally pay attention to Michelin stars or any of that - way above my budget. But I do tend to be interested in memoirs, and as someone who collects cookbooks like some collect tchotchkes, I enjoy reading about chefs and their backgrounds and training. 32 Yolks was both interesting and compulsively readable.
Ripert didn't have the best upbringing as a child. His parents ended up divorced, with his father dying not too long after that. His mother married a man who abused him (mentally more than physically, it appears). Not being a stellar student, he had little interest in pursuing further studies. What he *did* have, however, was a lifetime love for, and interest in, food. From the time he was small, his mother made amazing meals, complete with full service at all times. He was exposed to foods most children might never see, and decided that in the kitchen was where he needed to be. In his memoir, Ripert tells all of this as though you're sitting at a cafe, drinking espresso and having a chat. He and Veronica Chambers, who helped write this, have such an easy way of telling the story. It's actually almost helpful, that ease, particularly when you're reading the terrible details of some of the events in his life.
Overall, it was an enjoyable, interesting read about a man who has worked his way to the pinnacle in the chef world. I wish him the best of continued success, and would certainly be interested in reading more about his life as he made his way to America.
Ripert didn't have the best upbringing as a child. His parents ended up divorced, with his father dying not too long after that. His mother married a man who abused him (mentally more than physically, it appears). Not being a stellar student, he had little interest in pursuing further studies. What he *did* have, however, was a lifetime love for, and interest in, food. From the time he was small, his mother made amazing meals, complete with full service at all times. He was exposed to foods most children might never see, and decided that in the kitchen was where he needed to be. In his memoir, Ripert tells all of this as though you're sitting at a cafe, drinking espresso and having a chat. He and Veronica Chambers, who helped write this, have such an easy way of telling the story. It's actually almost helpful, that ease, particularly when you're reading the terrible details of some of the events in his life.
Overall, it was an enjoyable, interesting read about a man who has worked his way to the pinnacle in the chef world. I wish him the best of continued success, and would certainly be interested in reading more about his life as he made his way to America.
February 9, 2017
Eric Ripert is one of the most recognizable chefs in the world today. He makes good food. He's on Top Chef a lot. And Anthony Bourdain seems to think he's a swell guy. To top it off, he's always got that humble and composed Frenchman swagger. The guy just has it going on.
I like Eric Ripert, and I figured I was going to enjoy this book when I first picked it up. But I wasn't expecting to be so caught up in it. I mean, I LOVED it. Start to finish, loved it. It was fun to read, and I didn't want it to end. Ripert has such a way with words (or is that his editor?). His love of food is so obvious and earnest, and the way he describes his dishes and their ingredients makes you feel like you are right there tasting them. I've never been a natural foodie (though I AM getting better in the kitchen...), but listening to him share how he loves food made me want to treat food better.
What really sets this memoir apart, though, are all the personal details and feelings Ripert shares. He really puts it all out there. I had no idea that he went through so much in his life, especially during childhood. Learning about his relationship with his stepdad was heartbreaking. It's clear he has a lot of pain associated with some of the people and events he talks about, but he doesn't hide or gloss over anything. And he also doesn't lambast anyone either. Even the people who are harsh with him are treated with kindness and respect in this book, and I respect that.
I just so, so loved this memoir. I finished it a couple days ago, but I'm still thinking about it. It resonated with me in a powerful way. I can't recommend it highly enough.
FYI (because I can't help myself), I will add that if you like this book, you will probably like Yes, Chef by Marcus Samuelsson. And if you like food-centered fiction, I'd also suggest Kitchens of the Great Midwest.
ARC received through Amazon Vine.
See more of my book reviews at
I like Eric Ripert, and I figured I was going to enjoy this book when I first picked it up. But I wasn't expecting to be so caught up in it. I mean, I LOVED it. Start to finish, loved it. It was fun to read, and I didn't want it to end. Ripert has such a way with words (or is that his editor?). His love of food is so obvious and earnest, and the way he describes his dishes and their ingredients makes you feel like you are right there tasting them. I've never been a natural foodie (though I AM getting better in the kitchen...), but listening to him share how he loves food made me want to treat food better.
What really sets this memoir apart, though, are all the personal details and feelings Ripert shares. He really puts it all out there. I had no idea that he went through so much in his life, especially during childhood. Learning about his relationship with his stepdad was heartbreaking. It's clear he has a lot of pain associated with some of the people and events he talks about, but he doesn't hide or gloss over anything. And he also doesn't lambast anyone either. Even the people who are harsh with him are treated with kindness and respect in this book, and I respect that.
I just so, so loved this memoir. I finished it a couple days ago, but I'm still thinking about it. It resonated with me in a powerful way. I can't recommend it highly enough.
FYI (because I can't help myself), I will add that if you like this book, you will probably like Yes, Chef by Marcus Samuelsson. And if you like food-centered fiction, I'd also suggest Kitchens of the Great Midwest.
ARC received through Amazon Vine.
See more of my book reviews at
March 28, 2017
I enjoyed this book for so many reasons. I like autobiographies and this one is no exception. I didn't know who Eric Ripert was before delving into this so what a wonderful surprise to hear his story. This book was so well written. I loved the descriptive quality. His life was somewhat privileged, but there was also heartache and tragedy. The way these topics were handled is what made this well written, (in my opinion). It didn't feel like a tragedy parade as if the author was looking for some reaction from the reader. It felt honest and un-doctored.
I also love to cook, so that fact that he was a chef drew me right in. I felt his love and passion for food and his need for perfection, as well as his need to express himself through cooking. I was going to give this 4 stars, but I think I just talked myself into 5. This was a great read.
I also love to cook, so that fact that he was a chef drew me right in. I felt his love and passion for food and his need for perfection, as well as his need to express himself through cooking. I was going to give this 4 stars, but I think I just talked myself into 5. This was a great read.
August 1, 2018
Chef Ripert made me aware that my knife skills are pathetic. And that I desperately want to go to France and eat meal after delicious meal. But even more this is a story of backbreaking work, ambition, and family support. It took balls to go from culinary school to Michelin-starred kitchens, but Ripert did it. And he lived to very engagingly tell the tale. Great foodie memoir!
Full review on my book blog .
Full review on my book blog .
May 12, 2020
Technically, this is a success story, but it's very sad, depressing at times. Interesting, but I wouldn't call it inspiring.
April 27, 2025
Everyone knows that I love Eric Ripert, so I was very excited to pick up his memoir! In his writing, you could feel the way he thinks about cooking as a piece of art and love 💓 I didn’t know much about his childhood, so it was interesting to learn how rebellious he was and how he poured all of his anger into cooking. It was also a treat to see how much he came to love great food from the women in his life, and eventually some of the men as well!!
October 17, 2016
This a fascinating inside look from one of the world's best know chefs into what shaped and influenced him to become the culinary master he is. From the pain and abuse endured as a child, to the many mentors that taught and inspired him, Eric Ripert gives a amazing account of his life from earliest beginnings to the pinnacle of his enduring success. This also a good, detailed look at what it is like to work in some of the most famous restaurant's kitchens-- the stress, abuse, inspiration and the competitive nature of the staff. I recommend this book for all who love fine food and wonders what makes a food master tick. I received this book as an ARC in a giveaway by the author.
June 5, 2016
Read it. Couldn't put it down. It was heart-breaking and amazing, and as I read it, I'd find myself thinking, there's a piece that lead to LB's genius. Loved the line about how he could tell where a chef made a mistake in a sauce because he's made every single one of them himself. But now I want more! I want what happens after he gets to America! Ripert and his co-author did an excellent job of laying out the foundations of Ripert's life and start in the kitchen. Now I want the next step.
November 17, 2020
Everything I ever wanted in a food memoir. The story of how food shapes a person’s life. The dishes, the aromas, the markets, the family, the profound connection. I laughed. I cried. And now I’m sad it’s over. GREAT book. Might be my favorite this year. Thank you Chef.
February 5, 2017
A must read for those aspiring chefs! What determination! What achievements!
August 26, 2021
This was a quick but fascinating read. I heard of Eric Ripert years ago via Anthony Bourdain’s show and Top Chef. His memoir doesn’t hold back from sharing what was a pretty traumatic childhood, the struggles he had become a chef while intertwining it with stories about food, cooking and the impact it had throughout his childhood and as a young adult. Honestly this was exactly the bland you want from a chef’s biography. My only complaint is that the book ends with Ripert’s arrival to the US mostly because I wanted to keep reading.
February 17, 2017
Fascinating coming-of-age story of a boy becoming a man, finding his passion and learning to cook and how to be a professional chef.
This is a story of beginning of long way that Eric Ripert had to take to become an amazing chef of a three star restaurant. Reading it I had more and more admiration for all the chefs. Work in a kitchen is so difficult, so physically and mentally exhausting it amazes me that so many people decide to embark on this journey to become a professional chef. And I am thankful for them, otherwise I won't be able to enjoy amazing food that I am too lazy and ignorant to prepare.
Great memoir, a must read for all the inspiring cooks out there, be prepared to work hard, very hard. And all the foodies out there, after reading it, you will appreciate your food even more. After reading it, you will dismiss everyone that says that dishes in Michelin stared restaurant cost so much - so much effort of so many people is put into those dishes, that they are worth their price.
This is a story of beginning of long way that Eric Ripert had to take to become an amazing chef of a three star restaurant. Reading it I had more and more admiration for all the chefs. Work in a kitchen is so difficult, so physically and mentally exhausting it amazes me that so many people decide to embark on this journey to become a professional chef. And I am thankful for them, otherwise I won't be able to enjoy amazing food that I am too lazy and ignorant to prepare.
Great memoir, a must read for all the inspiring cooks out there, be prepared to work hard, very hard. And all the foodies out there, after reading it, you will appreciate your food even more. After reading it, you will dismiss everyone that says that dishes in Michelin stared restaurant cost so much - so much effort of so many people is put into those dishes, that they are worth their price.
July 30, 2017
I recently went to this chef's 3 Michelin star NYC restaurant Le Bernardin. It was a culinary experience of a life time and I wanted to know more about Eric Ripert. This book is about his lonely and troubled childhood, culinary school, and his first few chef experiences. If I ever had dreams of being a chef this book has cured me of such aspirations. Grueling is too mild of a word. You have a front row seat view of what made him the chef he is today. The book ends as he boards a plane from Paris to NYC. I was left wanting more. Lucky for me has written other books.
June 14, 2016
This is really a pretty good book---better than most chef memoirs. But it's hard to know how to rate a book for which the author had "help." In this case I might add that the "help" did a very good disappearing act, so that the prose seemed natural and the food parts seemed credibly detailed. I know that I couldn't have done anywhere near as good a job in describing the various knife cuts.
April 25, 2019
Personally, I liked the book. Eric comes off much of a French chef as he could. It was refreshing to see where he draws his inspirations from in his cooking.
March 1, 2024
Drawn in by his heartfelt and sarcastic relationship with Bourdain, I audiobooked this one and have even more of a love for Eric Ripert. Thanks for the rec, Lauren!
April 26, 2018
Finished the audiobook today (great narration) and it made me like Eric Ripert even more. He seems like a classy, stand-up guy and talented chef and I enjoy his friendship with Anthony Bourdain and watching them pal around on their shows. I had been meaning to read this one and since my blogging cooking group is cooking his recipes for the next six months, it seemed a good time to read his memoir.
He had a difficult upbringing with the death of his father at an early age, life with an abusive stepfather that lead to boarding school and being groomed by a priest he trusted, along with other hardships-but he found both solace and purpose in his passion for food. Great stories about his growth as a cook his time learning and working the line. My only 'beef' (pun intended) is that this memoir ended as Ripert is headed to America and I wanted more. I hope there's a second book as he's got more story to tell.👨�
He had a difficult upbringing with the death of his father at an early age, life with an abusive stepfather that lead to boarding school and being groomed by a priest he trusted, along with other hardships-but he found both solace and purpose in his passion for food. Great stories about his growth as a cook his time learning and working the line. My only 'beef' (pun intended) is that this memoir ended as Ripert is headed to America and I wanted more. I hope there's a second book as he's got more story to tell.👨�
April 3, 2017
What a beautiful memoir! I'm not a foodie or super into cooking, but I love a good food-related memoir. I adored the gritty brashness of Bourdain's 'Kitchen Confidential' and Ripert's own coming of age/ 'learning to love being a cook' story doesn't disappoint. It comes down to a simple story of of Ripert's pre-fame life, from his tough childhood to the stresses of learning to cook in the kitchen of one of the most talented (and demanding) chefs of the last century. Beautifully written in a way that will make you really feel Ripert's love for food - not just the mechanics of cooking, but when it comes down to it, his unabashed true love for good ingredients and the family love that make meals the most delicious.
January 17, 2019
We follow Eric, as a cherished only child of two loving parents. he is treated as somewhat of an equal at times, having his love of food seeded from these early days when his parents took him along for lavish meals and indulged him. His mother always a detail oriented and stylish woman, owner of a high end boutique, showed him excellence in preparing even simple meals at home, including presentation and table setting.
Unfortunately, his parents were a bit of a heartbreaking case of their time. Both social butterflies and major flirts, in society that led them to enforce monogamous jealousy on each other for behaving in the same way they themselves desired or acted. This increasingly grated on their relationship until separation and finally divorce. All of this, from the initial strain all the way to the divorce were absolutely crushing to young Eric, it's clear the depth of it's impact on his psyche is really what he's trying to hammer home by spending so much time on it, and why food became his refuge to recall the idealized days of when he had a perfect family.
After her parent split, he moves on with his mother, both parents re-marry, his mother to a man who quickly becomes physically abusive to Eric in secret, and punishes him for his love of food. When it begins coming to light, he's sent to a boarding school, however there he likewise has a pretty miserable life. A priest who leads his class recognizes his lack of a father figure starts spending time with him, and eventually grooming him, but when he reports it he is left to finish out the year at the school with a now very angry priest retaliating in the classroom while teaching him.
Next, he is off to trade school, where he continues with some misery, learning the very basics of cooking and waiting, when he has dined in great restaurants and feels above it. Fortunately he doesn't like this spoil his attitude, and from the school he's referred to begin work in simple but wonderful restaurants. Finally, we see him worth his way up finding mentors who pass him along on a next step up in the Paris restaurant scene, until he is finally in a 3 star restaurant barely surviving the incredible demands of the chef. While in a lowly rank, he works his way up, and the chef finally makes a connection for him in the US, closing the book on him leaving France with a single suitcase for what he feels will be a few years training to return to Paris, that turned into a lifelong home in the states.
This was good, but I wound up feeling a really huge focused amount of time was spent on his very young childhood and then the book wraps up with him only at 24. As far as clearly being what he wanted to share about the emotional connection he built in childhood to food and how that shaped his life, it did well, but obviously as a reader knowing who I was going to be reading about I just wanted a lot more of his professional life and successes.
Unfortunately, his parents were a bit of a heartbreaking case of their time. Both social butterflies and major flirts, in society that led them to enforce monogamous jealousy on each other for behaving in the same way they themselves desired or acted. This increasingly grated on their relationship until separation and finally divorce. All of this, from the initial strain all the way to the divorce were absolutely crushing to young Eric, it's clear the depth of it's impact on his psyche is really what he's trying to hammer home by spending so much time on it, and why food became his refuge to recall the idealized days of when he had a perfect family.
After her parent split, he moves on with his mother, both parents re-marry, his mother to a man who quickly becomes physically abusive to Eric in secret, and punishes him for his love of food. When it begins coming to light, he's sent to a boarding school, however there he likewise has a pretty miserable life. A priest who leads his class recognizes his lack of a father figure starts spending time with him, and eventually grooming him, but when he reports it he is left to finish out the year at the school with a now very angry priest retaliating in the classroom while teaching him.
Next, he is off to trade school, where he continues with some misery, learning the very basics of cooking and waiting, when he has dined in great restaurants and feels above it. Fortunately he doesn't like this spoil his attitude, and from the school he's referred to begin work in simple but wonderful restaurants. Finally, we see him worth his way up finding mentors who pass him along on a next step up in the Paris restaurant scene, until he is finally in a 3 star restaurant barely surviving the incredible demands of the chef. While in a lowly rank, he works his way up, and the chef finally makes a connection for him in the US, closing the book on him leaving France with a single suitcase for what he feels will be a few years training to return to Paris, that turned into a lifelong home in the states.
This was good, but I wound up feeling a really huge focused amount of time was spent on his very young childhood and then the book wraps up with him only at 24. As far as clearly being what he wanted to share about the emotional connection he built in childhood to food and how that shaped his life, it did well, but obviously as a reader knowing who I was going to be reading about I just wanted a lot more of his professional life and successes.
January 15, 2019
This is the story of Chef Eric Ripert, from his childhood to his early twenties before coming to the US. Basically the story ends as soon as it becomes interesting. You will never really learn how he became the great chef that he is now. What I learned was that if you have a wealthy mom and dad who can afford to dine at Michelin starred restaurant, speak French and go to culinary school and be a mediocre student there you might be destined to become the most revered chef in the whole world. The early chapters are dragged on and on without any interesting story. Final chapters about his final year in Paris is certainly good but that’s just one chapter! Eric Ripert is a great chef, and his story is probably a great one, too bad this book is not telling it.
March 3, 2023
Read around the world project - Andorra
32 Yolks is Ripert's memoir from childhood through early twenties, tracing his time growing up in France and Andorra, the death of his father, and his first introductions to the kitchens of high end restaurants. We definitely have different taste in food, but I was impressed with Ripert's (and his writing partner's) way with words when describing (worshipping?) ingredients and innovation in the kitchen.
32 Yolks is Ripert's memoir from childhood through early twenties, tracing his time growing up in France and Andorra, the death of his father, and his first introductions to the kitchens of high end restaurants. We definitely have different taste in food, but I was impressed with Ripert's (and his writing partner's) way with words when describing (worshipping?) ingredients and innovation in the kitchen.
June 4, 2017
My experience with Ripert is mostly limited to Top Chef, this just made me love him more. His book isn't about natural talent, but just a love of food and years of practice and hard work.
February 16, 2021
Beautifully written and worthwhile read. Really enjoyed hearing about culinary training in another country.
April 25, 2018
Note: I wanted to give this book 3 stars in keeping with the Michelin system, but it's better than that.
I am one who eats to live, as opposed to living to eat. I’m a far cry from a foodie and am looking forward to the culmination of the chevre craze when I can eat a nice beet salad without encountering that most unpleasant of surprises. I've hunted for my share of chanterelles in the coastal forests of Oregon because I am all about fresh food. But I'd just as soon buy a handful of baby bellas, slice them up, and call it a day. And then suffer through my family's complaints that there are mushrooms in the sauce, of course, even though I repeatedly remind them that they mostly add texture and you can’t even taste them, really.
All likewise things considered, I'd never heard of Eric Ripert before reading this book for my book club. I've never watched Top Chef or any other cooking show for that matter, although yesterday I did watch a YouTube video of my friend's Italian mom making her meatballs and gravy and I do plan on trying my Irish hand at that because, well, corned beef and cabbage is great, but then there are the other 364 days of the year. I am now sufficiently intrigued by the catchy title of Ripert’s show and a cookbook or two, Avec Eric, which I learned about on the back cover flap. And I didn't even notice his handsome smiling visage on the back cover until I closed the book for the very last time, which might have otherwise enticed me to have searched for him on the tv.
All in all, this book made me feel like I've never eaten anything. Certainly nothing that exists between its covers, including Ripert's simple French childhood snacks. And even though I've been cooking for the ever-changing, mushroom-disliking crowd I've lived with for over 30 years, I also felt like I've never cooked anything, either. My happiest days are when a crock-pot has been sitting on my counter, fungi-free cooking all day, and I’ve earned a giant checkmark for having already conquered that dreaded daily question, "What's for dinner?" Alas, SPOILER ALERT, there are no crock-pot recipes in this book. And now that I think of it, the timeline of this book ends with Avec Eric still in his early twenties, so who knows? Three decades later, he’s probably knocking off a macaroni and cheese here and there for his own kids. Once upon a time, I, too, made a successful soufflé.
I do value the family dinner hour and our dining table does include a box of Table Topics, which we regularly use to enhance our dinner conversations. But even though we are regaled with tale after tale of how Ripert and his kin worship the fine art of table setting, even when camping or climbing a mountain, the book did nothing to educate us as to the actual reason why each piece of silverware is properly parked in its respective place. Nor did it explain the actual use for things like the many unique heirloom pieces that hang on a spoon rack in my dining room as opposed to being called into service because, well, who really needs a strawberry spoon? Regardless of function or rationale, at dinnertime in my house, my demands for demonstrations of this art form typically result in complaints, not appreciation. I'd never heard the term oenology, which he casually tosses out, but I just Googled it and it means the science and study of wine and wine making. You're welcome.
Just as reading Into Thin Air cured me of ever wanting to climb Mt Everest, 32 Yolks serves as an excellent example of why climbing to the top of the chef world is yet another equally painful endeavor littered with the remains of those who attempted but succumbed that I can safely say I’m never going to do. The mere thought of cooking for 18 hours a day makes me want to go back to bed and dream of dancing sugarplums. Ditto for creating 90 perfect dots of alternating sauces around the rims of each plate. Most of my plates are chipped around the edges so I'm fairly certain no number of alternating ketchup and brown sugar glaze dots would elevate the presentation of my famous Easter ham all that much.
One passage I marked involves fresh peas. I love fresh peas and look forward to them every June. Fresh peas are the harbinger of fresh summer produce, a sacred vegetable worthy of worship, which I do. I could wax poetic about them for days. Fresh peas serve as a reminder of my own mom, who taught me to buy a pound per person. And even though they get more and more pricey each year, they're a luxury I gladly afford, a fine dining experience the promise of which gets me through winter. Priceless. They also serve as a reminder of my grandmother, Mimi, who lives in my head, instructing me to parboil them "just until the skins wrinkle", after which we drain them and add the New England equivalent to 32 yolks—milk and butter—then season them with the Irish equivalent of Herbes de Provence—salt and pepper—reheating gently and serving in bowls with a plain old spoon, the bigger the better. Simple, sweet, and delicious.
In this book? Not so much. Have a read here as the author recounts this vignette about his boss, the renowned 3-star (or, in 3-letters, OCD) chef: "When he told us that he wanted every single pea peeled to reveal the tiny germ inside, we thought it was madness, but we did it. If you were to peel a fresh pea right now, you would see that inside the shell, there is a very tiny sprout attached to every pea. Robuchon wanted us to take off that tiny sprout, because he believed it would add just a hint of bitterness to the dish." It’s true that as pea season progresses and the peas get a bit older, they do lose their tenderness and taste bitterer so, alas, perhaps this tiny sprout is to blame. Nevertheless, I can’t imagine peeling even one pea. Right? Emptying the pods and trying to prevent my kids from eating them all raw is hard enough for me. I highly doubt I could press them all into service peeling them. I wouldn’t know which knife to use or if I even own the correct blade for this persnickety task.
But to take this home just one more time, my own family lore includes the legend of Mimi’s cousin, Beryl Cram, who, when eating her peas, was said to have spit the skins out. The recounting of this Table Topic every spring as we gather around the table to enjoy our dishes of peas in milk never fails to elicit both laughter and wonder, begging so many questions. How long did it take her to eat an average sized serving? What was her technique and how had she mastered it? Where, exactly, did she spit the skins, given her proper, finishing school society? Was there a special spoon for this? Is it hanging on our wall? After reading this book, I have to wonder if poor Beryl was dining about a century ahead of her time. Certainly Robuchon, Ribert, and the other poor pea-peeling chefs will be added to our annual retelling of Beryl’s pea-eating proclivities, but I’m honestly sorry that she never enjoyed this dish. As far as we know. It would have saved her so much time and effort, after all. Perhaps Robuchon is Beryl, reincarnated! As for me, reading this passage made me wish I could have dined at his restaurant, just once, so I could send this dish back to the kitchen and demand that the pea skins be restored to my plate. Because, well, what about nutrition? Everyone knows the skins and, yes, the sprouts, too, contain the mother lode of nutrients. But this fine food is not designed for those eating to live, I suppose.
Read this book and discover your own inadequacies. Or not, as the case may be. And if you’re in search of a new kitchen or family to cook for, my door is always open. This includes you, Eric, if you're listening. Any meal I don’t have to cook is fine enough dining for me. Oh, and if you are, one final thing. I did wonder whatever happened to your horrible step-father. Did your lovely mom finally leave him? I hope so. I like to imagine that he’s been consigned to a special kind of hell where the dining options are limited to Twinkies or Hot Pockets. Alternately, if did show up at Le Bernardin, would you welcome him in for dinner? If so, I’d like to suggest that you make him peel his own peas.
K3
I am one who eats to live, as opposed to living to eat. I’m a far cry from a foodie and am looking forward to the culmination of the chevre craze when I can eat a nice beet salad without encountering that most unpleasant of surprises. I've hunted for my share of chanterelles in the coastal forests of Oregon because I am all about fresh food. But I'd just as soon buy a handful of baby bellas, slice them up, and call it a day. And then suffer through my family's complaints that there are mushrooms in the sauce, of course, even though I repeatedly remind them that they mostly add texture and you can’t even taste them, really.
All likewise things considered, I'd never heard of Eric Ripert before reading this book for my book club. I've never watched Top Chef or any other cooking show for that matter, although yesterday I did watch a YouTube video of my friend's Italian mom making her meatballs and gravy and I do plan on trying my Irish hand at that because, well, corned beef and cabbage is great, but then there are the other 364 days of the year. I am now sufficiently intrigued by the catchy title of Ripert’s show and a cookbook or two, Avec Eric, which I learned about on the back cover flap. And I didn't even notice his handsome smiling visage on the back cover until I closed the book for the very last time, which might have otherwise enticed me to have searched for him on the tv.
All in all, this book made me feel like I've never eaten anything. Certainly nothing that exists between its covers, including Ripert's simple French childhood snacks. And even though I've been cooking for the ever-changing, mushroom-disliking crowd I've lived with for over 30 years, I also felt like I've never cooked anything, either. My happiest days are when a crock-pot has been sitting on my counter, fungi-free cooking all day, and I’ve earned a giant checkmark for having already conquered that dreaded daily question, "What's for dinner?" Alas, SPOILER ALERT, there are no crock-pot recipes in this book. And now that I think of it, the timeline of this book ends with Avec Eric still in his early twenties, so who knows? Three decades later, he’s probably knocking off a macaroni and cheese here and there for his own kids. Once upon a time, I, too, made a successful soufflé.
I do value the family dinner hour and our dining table does include a box of Table Topics, which we regularly use to enhance our dinner conversations. But even though we are regaled with tale after tale of how Ripert and his kin worship the fine art of table setting, even when camping or climbing a mountain, the book did nothing to educate us as to the actual reason why each piece of silverware is properly parked in its respective place. Nor did it explain the actual use for things like the many unique heirloom pieces that hang on a spoon rack in my dining room as opposed to being called into service because, well, who really needs a strawberry spoon? Regardless of function or rationale, at dinnertime in my house, my demands for demonstrations of this art form typically result in complaints, not appreciation. I'd never heard the term oenology, which he casually tosses out, but I just Googled it and it means the science and study of wine and wine making. You're welcome.
Just as reading Into Thin Air cured me of ever wanting to climb Mt Everest, 32 Yolks serves as an excellent example of why climbing to the top of the chef world is yet another equally painful endeavor littered with the remains of those who attempted but succumbed that I can safely say I’m never going to do. The mere thought of cooking for 18 hours a day makes me want to go back to bed and dream of dancing sugarplums. Ditto for creating 90 perfect dots of alternating sauces around the rims of each plate. Most of my plates are chipped around the edges so I'm fairly certain no number of alternating ketchup and brown sugar glaze dots would elevate the presentation of my famous Easter ham all that much.
One passage I marked involves fresh peas. I love fresh peas and look forward to them every June. Fresh peas are the harbinger of fresh summer produce, a sacred vegetable worthy of worship, which I do. I could wax poetic about them for days. Fresh peas serve as a reminder of my own mom, who taught me to buy a pound per person. And even though they get more and more pricey each year, they're a luxury I gladly afford, a fine dining experience the promise of which gets me through winter. Priceless. They also serve as a reminder of my grandmother, Mimi, who lives in my head, instructing me to parboil them "just until the skins wrinkle", after which we drain them and add the New England equivalent to 32 yolks—milk and butter—then season them with the Irish equivalent of Herbes de Provence—salt and pepper—reheating gently and serving in bowls with a plain old spoon, the bigger the better. Simple, sweet, and delicious.
In this book? Not so much. Have a read here as the author recounts this vignette about his boss, the renowned 3-star (or, in 3-letters, OCD) chef: "When he told us that he wanted every single pea peeled to reveal the tiny germ inside, we thought it was madness, but we did it. If you were to peel a fresh pea right now, you would see that inside the shell, there is a very tiny sprout attached to every pea. Robuchon wanted us to take off that tiny sprout, because he believed it would add just a hint of bitterness to the dish." It’s true that as pea season progresses and the peas get a bit older, they do lose their tenderness and taste bitterer so, alas, perhaps this tiny sprout is to blame. Nevertheless, I can’t imagine peeling even one pea. Right? Emptying the pods and trying to prevent my kids from eating them all raw is hard enough for me. I highly doubt I could press them all into service peeling them. I wouldn’t know which knife to use or if I even own the correct blade for this persnickety task.
But to take this home just one more time, my own family lore includes the legend of Mimi’s cousin, Beryl Cram, who, when eating her peas, was said to have spit the skins out. The recounting of this Table Topic every spring as we gather around the table to enjoy our dishes of peas in milk never fails to elicit both laughter and wonder, begging so many questions. How long did it take her to eat an average sized serving? What was her technique and how had she mastered it? Where, exactly, did she spit the skins, given her proper, finishing school society? Was there a special spoon for this? Is it hanging on our wall? After reading this book, I have to wonder if poor Beryl was dining about a century ahead of her time. Certainly Robuchon, Ribert, and the other poor pea-peeling chefs will be added to our annual retelling of Beryl’s pea-eating proclivities, but I’m honestly sorry that she never enjoyed this dish. As far as we know. It would have saved her so much time and effort, after all. Perhaps Robuchon is Beryl, reincarnated! As for me, reading this passage made me wish I could have dined at his restaurant, just once, so I could send this dish back to the kitchen and demand that the pea skins be restored to my plate. Because, well, what about nutrition? Everyone knows the skins and, yes, the sprouts, too, contain the mother lode of nutrients. But this fine food is not designed for those eating to live, I suppose.
Read this book and discover your own inadequacies. Or not, as the case may be. And if you’re in search of a new kitchen or family to cook for, my door is always open. This includes you, Eric, if you're listening. Any meal I don’t have to cook is fine enough dining for me. Oh, and if you are, one final thing. I did wonder whatever happened to your horrible step-father. Did your lovely mom finally leave him? I hope so. I like to imagine that he’s been consigned to a special kind of hell where the dining options are limited to Twinkies or Hot Pockets. Alternately, if did show up at Le Bernardin, would you welcome him in for dinner? If so, I’d like to suggest that you make him peel his own peas.
K3
November 28, 2024
I went into this book knowing very little about Chef Ripert, but left feeling like I had been on his journey alongside with him. This memoir is incredibly personal, with some very relatable journeys and struggles through the way. There is a lot of personality, humor, and sorrow mixed within these pages.
Its weird to say aloud, but I love reading stories of people struggling. Because in all of our lives, we struggle. And to see something so personal shared in a book is really eye opening, relatable, and humbling. Everything Ripert went through, his parents divorce at a young age, growing up fatherless, abuse, and learning to cook in perhaps the most grueling era of modern cooking.
I will say that as good as this one was, I wished it was longer. In fact, this book feels very much like the first book to a duology or trilogy of memoirs that Ripert could write. The book ends when Ripert is still a young chef, and I would have loved to continue to see the account of his later travels and work.
Overall, really enjoyed this memoir.
Its weird to say aloud, but I love reading stories of people struggling. Because in all of our lives, we struggle. And to see something so personal shared in a book is really eye opening, relatable, and humbling. Everything Ripert went through, his parents divorce at a young age, growing up fatherless, abuse, and learning to cook in perhaps the most grueling era of modern cooking.
I will say that as good as this one was, I wished it was longer. In fact, this book feels very much like the first book to a duology or trilogy of memoirs that Ripert could write. The book ends when Ripert is still a young chef, and I would have loved to continue to see the account of his later travels and work.
Overall, really enjoyed this memoir.
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