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336 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1998
Uno de mis viajes soñados es por los mares y los montes de la isla de Nueva Guinea. Al ver este libro no me pude resistir, porque encima estaba de oferta a 3�. Y qué gran compra, estimados lectores.
Tim Flannery [TF] se licenció en literatura inglesa, créanlo, y luego se doctoró en zoologÃa. Aunque ahora anda dedicado al cambio climático, en tiempos se dedicó a estudiar a fondo a los marsupiales, con gran éxito, pues descubrió 39 especies desconocidas para la ciencia. A lo largo de estas páginas vivimos la emoción del descubrimiento de nuevas espacies en los más oscuros recovecos de las junglas de Papúa Nueva Guinea (paÃs que ocupa la mitad oriental de la isla) y la provincia de Irian Jaya, que era la mitad occidenatal (y que hoy son ), en una sucesión de varias expediciones para catalogar la fauna local, y especialmente los grandes mamÃferos.
En sus expediciones, casi todo son incomodidades. TF casi murió por fiebre de los pastos. Sólo le salvó una monja enfermera que sospechó que tras una semana de tratamiento contra la malaria la ausencia de mejorÃa significaba que probablemente no era malaria lo que sufrÃa TF. La enfermera buscó con cuidado la mordedura de una especie concreta de garrapata y, al encontrarla (siempre pican en la zona genital), lo envió corriendo a un hospital donde podrÃan darle tratamiento.
Además, el libro es un constante devenir de especies que están a punto de extinguirse. A cada sitio al que llega le dicen que hay cierta especie de canguro arborÃcola que no se ve desde hace una o dos generaciones. El libro es una continua búsqueda de especies en el borde de la existencia. Algunas veces TF tiene éxito y otras sólo puede esperar que en algún rincón olvidado sin presencia humana, una pequeña comunidad de canguros pueda aguantar un par de generaciones más.
Pero el libro no va solo de animales. TF hace una descripción cargada de amor y admiración de la cultura melanesia, hoy prácticamente destruida por (o adaptada a) las influencias europeas y musulmanas (indonesias). Durante sus andanzas por la isla se hizo amigo de muchos melanesios, oks, telefols, y muchos otros de cuya existencia yo no tenÃa ni idea. Su descripción de las costumbres y el modo de vida de estas tribus nos hace sonreÃr, a pesar de que si las analizamos frÃamente sean muy primitivas: la inmensa mayorÃa de los asesinatos en Papúa son por robos, ya sean de tierras, mujeres o cerdos (¿en ese orden?). TF cuenta cómo la creciente presencia de no melanesios en la isla tiene consecuencias catastróficas, según él, para la cultura local. Un párrafo que da idea de las opiniones del autor:
Para un soldado bugi o javanés embrutecido de servicio en un puesto de guardia, el viejo negro con un calabacÃn fálico que va arreando un cerdo delante de él es un ser demonÃaco y profundamente detestable. Es una caricatura de la humanidad, con la que el soldado evita todo contacto salvo la violencia. Pero yo conozco a ese anciano. Tiene un sentido indomable del valor, sentido del humor y un profundo sentimiento de humanidad. Es el jefe de una comunidad respetado por su sabidurÃa, su oratoria y su riqueza tradicional. Es un gran hombre. El soldado es inferior en todos los sentidos. Y sin embargo el gobierno pone un arma automática en manos del don nadie, con lo que tiene la libertad de tratar a sus conciudadanos con una brutalidad y una falta de consideración que ha creado un odio intenso entre muchos iranianos contra lo que ellos consideran un ejército de ocupación
Hay una anécdota muy graciosa, cuando TF intenta entrevistarse con el jefe de una tribu pero le dicen que no, que se ha ido con su grupo de danzas tribales a participar en la ceremonia de inauguración de los Juegos OlÃmpicos de Barcelona 92
El libro es muy entretenido y se aprende un montón. La traducción es buena, salvo por la confusión demasiado frecuente de haya/halla y otros fallos como a parte/aparte, que molestan bastante cuando te golpean en la cara.
Mi nota: Muy interesante.
After Greenland it is the world's largest island, and its size, shape and rugged mountains are all the result of its peculiar geological history, for New Guinea is Australia's bow wave.
People have lived there for at least 45,000 years. They arrived by sea from Asia at a time when New Guinea and Australia were joined.
The ancient Romans flavoured their food with cloves, which are the flower buds of a lilly pilly which grows only on islands just to the west of New Guinea.
During the colonial period, Germany, the Netherlands and Australia all counted parts of New Guinea as their territory. Australia ended up administering the eastern half of the island, which became the independent nation of Papua New Guinea in 1975. The western half passed from Dutch to Indonesian hands, and is now a province of Indonesia.
He questioned me intensively about the beast and its sexual habits, before explaining that his most recent book of poems was called Antechinus. The work had the sex lives of these strange marsupials as a major theme. Their reproductive pattern is unusual in that males live only eleven months, while females can live years.
To this day the Neon Basin of December 1981 remains my enchanted place - the refuge I imagine myself in as a means of escape from the interminable boredom of committee meetings.
Bloated stomachs, denoting malnutrition and chronic swelling of the spleen due to malaria, were almost universal in the few surviving children, as well as many of the adults.
I was actually rather pleased about the leeches, for where there are lots of leeches there must also be many mammals for them to live off.
The worst annoyance on the mountain were the sweat bees. [...] Sweat bees are minute, stingless bees which can swarm by the thousand from dawn until dusk. As their name suggests, they drink sweat.
Most West Miyanmin do, on occasion, become crazed with sorrow. This state of temporary insanity caused by calamity is widely accepted in Miyanmin society as legitimate behaviour, despite the fact that mad grief can become an excuse for the most outrageous acts.
Dan Jorgensen, a Canadian anthropologist who had already spent several years with the Telefol, was then living in a village called Telefolip.
He wore ex-army shorts and a military beret, but had doubtless spent his early years dressed in kamen and autil, the traditional Telefol penis gourd and cane waistband.
After an awkward silence I fished a cooked sweet potato out of the ashes (these formed our principal food at the camp) and passed it to him.
He begged us to buy the tomatoes and carrots which the village women grew. He explained that the Atbalmin would not yet eat such strange food and were growing them only for sale to the expected influx of tourists.
Such places are known as bil to the Mountains Ok, explaining the number of airstrips which bear the term as a suffix (Tabubil, Tumolbil, Defakbil, etc.).
The Mountain Ok people have a special use for the webs. They fashion fish traps out of them. They search for a four-pronged stick, which they whisk into web after web with a circular motion. Soon it becomes a container of sticky web and trapped spiders. They place this in a river or stream, cup upward. There, miniature fish adhere to the sticky fibres.
Anti-malarial drugs offer only partial protection. Malaria, it seems, mutates so rapidly that it becomes resistant to each new drug soon after it is developed.
As a result of these problems, I have learned to live with vivax malaria (the most common and least dangerous strain) while in New Guinea. Indeed, malaria often seems to cause my worst troubles in Australia.
The people of 3Fas are sago-eaters. They plant no gardens, and so even a banana was an unheard-of luxury. Like them, I had to subsist on sago processed into a grey jelly that resembled snot in colour, texture and (I assume) taste.
The boils are caused by a bacterium which normally inhabits the nasal cavity. You are commonly infected by scratching yourself after shaking hands with someone who has just picked his nose.
Melanesians are loath to foul their waterways, and one rarely sees such a disgusting sight elsewhere in New Guinea.
The gourd worn by the young men serves as a pouch. They remove the plug of fur or cloth at its end, and retrieve from it tobacco, matches or other small knick-knacks. Being broad, it has considerable capacity. Being short, it does not get entangled during a dash through the forest in pursuit of a possum. Such an accident, by the way, could be rather painful, considering the string that ties the gourd at its base to one testicle.
One of his innovations was a project to grow garlic, a light, relatively high-priced product, for export.
Endemic plants (those unique to an area) often support endemic mammals. The fact that they were fruiting suggested mammal activity should be at a peak.
Like virtually all mountain people, they can view Europeans simply as a boundless source of wealth, and fail to accord them the common courtesy they would extend to anyone else. Some people demanded ridiculous prices for items such as vegetables, and then became angered when I refused to accede to their demands. Many, I am sure, thought that I acted out of pure selfishness by refusing to share my wealth.