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Searching for Hassan: A Journey to the Heart of Iran

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This “astonishing and deeply poignant� (The Washington Post) memoir of one man’s search for a beloved family friend explores the depth of Iranian culture and the sweep of its history, and transcends today’s news headlines to remind us of the humanity that connects us all.

Growing up in Tehran in the 1960s, Terence Ward and his brothers were watched over by Hassan, the family’s cook, housekeeper, and cultural guide. After an absence of thirty years and much turmoil in Iran, Ward embarks on a quixotic pilgrimage with his family in search of their lost friend. However, as they set out on this improbable quest with no address or phone number, their only hope lies in their mother’s small black and white photograph taken decades before.

Crossing the vast landscape of ancient Persia, Ward interweaves its incredibly rich past, while exploring modern Iran’s deep conflicts with its Arab neighbors and our current administration. Searching for Hassan puts a human face on the long-suffering people of the Middle East with this inspirational story of an American family who came to love and admire Iran and its culture through their deep affection for its people. The journey answers the question, “How far would you go for a friend?�

Including a revised preface and epilogue, this new and updated edition continues to demonstrate that Searching for Hassan is as relevant and timely as ever in shaping conversations and ways of thinking about different cultures both in the US and around the world.

368 pages, Hardcover

First published January 16, 2002

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Terence Ward

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 75 reviews
Profile Image for Natasha.
43 reviews3 followers
September 12, 2011
When I was 3 1/2 my family moved to Iran. It is the first place that I have real memories of. I still remember the smell of the bazaar, the sound of the music and the feel of the heat. I remember jumping over fires on Nowruz, riding my bike to the main road to see the Shah drive by, and playing in the ruins of Persepolis. In 1979 we were evacuated, and my world changed. The dust and the heat of Iran worked their way into my heart and I will forever love the country and the people who live there.

Terence Ward was also raised in Iran. His family left long before the revolution but they never forgot Hassan, their cook. Decades later they decided to return to Iran to find Hassan and his family. Terry's memories of his happy childhood are sprinkled in among the family's recent experiences in post-revolution Iran. The result is part travel guide, part history book and part love letter to a beautiful and magical country.

I could not put this book down. If you love Iran as I do, this is a must read. If you want to know more about the country and the Iranian people, this is a must read.
Profile Image for Barbara.
1,068 reviews151 followers
September 21, 2020
I've been to Iran. Twice. That seems to surprise people. Maybe not as much as when they learn I've also been to Libya, but still pretty surprised.

I'd go again in a heartbeat (but maybe not until this Covid-19 crisis is way past). My most recent trip was in 2006 and it was on an organised tour that lasted 2 weeks and took in many of the absolutely astonishing places and attraction that this pariah state has to offer. When I got home, I put 'Searching for Hassan' on my Amazon wishlist, bought a second-hand copy a few years later and then didn't get around to reading it. Seeing an updated version available as an Audiobook through my library's free audiobook service, I snapped it up.

Terry Ward, his three brothers and his parents lived in Iran back in the 1970s. His dad was something in oil - as indeed, most ex-pat workers would have been at that time. The Ward family lived in Tehran but saw relatively little of the country. Their cook and general factotum was a chap called Hassan and he, along with his wife Fatimeh, became very much part of the Ward family. Two decades after the family had to leave Iran, the boys - who are now men with children of their own - and their parents decide to take a trip to Iran to see all the things they missed back when they lived there, and to try to find Hassan and his family.

They went in 1998, at one of the relatively relaxed points of post-Revolutionary Iran. Hope was high that President Khatami would introduce a lot of changes to reduce the excesses of the Khomeini era, and somehow the family found a way to get visas for a visit. Roughly half the book is a travelogue - you can be forgiven for wondering when they'll actually START searching for Hassan as they trot around the attractions of the pre-Islamic and pre-Revolutionary eras. As somebody who has been to most of the places they visited, I absolutely recognised the authenticity of Ward's observations. I also very much appreciated that he didn't simply rehash old tour-guides as some other, lesser travel books I've read recently do. He captures the essence of the place and the fabulously curious and friendly people.

I have to be fair and say that the response to their tourist activities may not be the same if you've not been to Iran. I totally accept that not everybody will love the descriptions.

The second half of the book is about finding Hassan and reforming the most wonderful relationships with him and his family. I saw a review that described this book as one of the few 'happy ending' books about Iran and it really is a very happy story. The search was rather less complicated than the title might suggest, but the outcome was fantastic.

As the audiobook was only released this year, it includes a lot of material and updates that weren't in the original paperback that I have. Some of the updates are fascinating. As the kind of person who always wonders "But what happened next?" when the credits roll at the end of the film, I wanted to know and was happy to hear about follow-up visits. Having found Hassan and his family, the Wards were not about to lose them again. I also found it fascinating when we learn that Hassan's story has prompted lots of travellers to go searching for him themselves after reading Ward's book. It's absolutely delightful.

For everybody who ever thought that Iran is a gloomy country full of serious people living under strict control and restrictions and on standby to have another war at any moment, this book is recommended reading though you'll need to open your mind first. For those who've been to Iran, it's a great way to remind yourself of just how fabulous a place it is and for those who want to go, it's an inspiration.
Profile Image for Benjamin Farr.
529 reviews30 followers
October 8, 2016
An American-centric account of a family holiday to Iran and the reunion between a former housekeeper and an expatriate family. The book wouldn't have been so bad had it not been for the excessive use of adjective-laden language and the author's continual self-praise of himself and family.
Profile Image for Sandra.
136 reviews
July 10, 2020
There aren't many stories about Americans and Iranians with happy endings. This book is about one of those exceptions.

Terence Ward and his family lived for ten years in Iran. Their experiences included some of the best and worst that expatriats went through, though it is clear through the telling of the story of the family's return to Iran to search for the Iranian family who became such an important part of theirs that Ward's parents sheltered them from the worst and took steps to expand the boundaries of the best. But this book is about so much more than returning to search for Hassan. Though that story is heart-warming and brought tears to my eyes, the subtitle conveys the more important journey.

Ward invites the reader to understand why his family would choose to return to Iran 29 years after they left, in order to find the man who served as their cook, gardener, and storyteller to the children. He shares the particular history of Iran as well as the misunderstood role Iran/Persia played in world history as he describes the near magical locations the family visits along the way: Shiraz, Pasargadae, Persepolis, Isfahan, Yazd, Qom, and ends at the near completely changed Tehran they once knew.

I, too, lived in Iran for several years, later than when the Wards lived there. Without guides such as the Ward's parents and Hassan, for too long I let the unpleasant experiences color my impressions of the place. Not long ago, two of my colleagues from my Iran days returned as tourists, much as the Ward family did. Their most striking impression mirrored much of what Terence Ward describes in this book: where the Iranian and US governments continue to sow discontent between then, the Iranian people showed only hospitality and welcome.

I wish I had a Hassan to return to Iran in search of.
Profile Image for Anne Slater.
702 reviews17 followers
August 21, 2010
Terence Ward is a magician: he combines family history, a family quest, political and religious history of Iran, deep look into Islam and its manifestations (with comments that really help me understand the difference between the Sunnis and the Shia), and a long look at Zoroastrianism and its role in Judaism and Christianity.

It is all woven together with acute observations of how a family that spent many years in Iran, leaving in 1969, was received when they returned; their interactions with the Iranian (and other)people they encountered and were searching for. Ward also shows us the gentle, loving, open-hearted and morally upright philosophy with which his parents raised their children, and how that shaped the 4 brothers, and impacted (especially) the people they were searching for, but actually all the people they encountered in their travels in 1998.

At the denouement, I cried, and turned the pages back so I could read it again.
On a lighter note, I discovered the Hassan's recipe for tagid, the crusty bottom part of Iranian baked rice (it's super good).
Profile Image for Wes F.
1,122 reviews13 followers
July 8, 2020
Fascinating & very well-written book about a family who used to live in Tehran, Iran--back in the days of the Shah. Terence & his brothers attended the Community School and their father directed plays at the Iran-American Society. They never forgot about their house helper, Hassan, and his family, and on a whim in 1998 or so, decide to go to Iran to try to locate him. Ward does an excellent job of weaving in historical & cultural background into the story of their adventure, as it unfolds. From Shiraz, they head north, taking in Persepolis, Pasargade (King Cyrus' tomb), Yazd, Esfahan, and Qom--as well as the small town where they remember Hassan telling them he was originally from. Great story all-around. Read on my Kindle.

The spirit of the book is well captured by author Gelareh Asayesh in the Washington Post: “The trip back to Iran proves to be a new beginning in the saga of the Wards and Ghasemis. Something very unusual happened in that Persian garden many years ago: the family of an American Christian oil company executive and the family of an Iranian Muslim cook became one. And if they were able to bridge the great divide, perhaps there is hope for us all.�
Profile Image for padme.
18 reviews24 followers
July 8, 2017
با این خانواده می توان ایران رو از زاویه جدیدی دید. البته برای من داستانش کشش زیادی نداشت و هر چند وقت یه بار می رفتم به صورت پراکنده چند صفحه می خوندم. پیشنهادم اینکه به صورت سفرنامه خونده بشه مثلا اگر میخواین برین اصفهان فصل های مربوط به اصفهان رو قبلش بخونید. همراه با داستان اطلاعات عمومی جدیدی هم میده که بد نیست به عنوان یه ایرانی بدونیم.
Profile Image for Brian Griffith.
Author7 books316 followers
October 27, 2020
The best feature of this story is the author's sense of appreciation. Returning to the land of his childhood after 30 years, Ward is filled with appreciation for all places, characters and conundrums he meets. Where suspicion commonly reigns between Americans and Iranians, Ward's infectious appreciation opens door after door to enjoyment, insight, and friendship.
35 reviews
June 30, 2020
Stunningly beautiful

This culture is one of immense importance in art, poetry, and all facets of human civilization as well as the more commonly grasped areas of politics and oil economics. This beautiful book illuminates this for the reader through the framework of a family returning to Iran in a search to reconnect with the cook and friend who had served in their home earlier. Having lived in Azerbaijan for a time I developed a keen interest in this part of the world and this book captures the beauty and strength of its people on a personal scale to which almost everyone can relate. Not to be missed is all the material that comes after narrative proper. Invaluable both in insight as well as specific references.
Profile Image for Behrooz.
626 reviews4 followers
July 8, 2020
Wonderful book. Very touching. Especially for thousands of people like me who were born in Iran and left for education and never returned. It's been 46 years since I was last in Iran. And I miss her desparately. And I don't have a good word to say about the religious politicians there. So few, have ruined the lives of so many in the name of religion. Now, they cannot bring themselves to reform as they have too much to lose. So the struggle continues and so little time left for me to visit my wonderful country.
Profile Image for Rachel.
2,839 reviews62 followers
August 13, 2009
So at first I thought this book was just going to a memoir/travel book documenting a families return to Iran after living there three decades before and the search for a family friend, but it has a bit of Near Eastern/Iranian history and religion in it as well. It is a fascinating read and I love learning about the history of a region that I'm traveling to, either in person or through a good book such as this one. Fabulous book, I highly recommend it.
Profile Image for Rachael.
568 reviews
July 13, 2012
This is not an easy read, another one that feels like a college reading assignment, my book club is getting a bit heavy lately. But I actually enjoyed it and learned so much. It was a big long tour of Iran with a rambling history lesson mixed in throughout. But the characters (real people) were great and what a place and history it is! I doubt I will remember many of the facts, but I caught a glimpse of the unique culture of Iran.
Profile Image for Assal.
7 reviews
March 23, 2009
Terence Ward is one of the many reasons why Iranians love Americans so much. Every Iranian family has had a "Hassan" to depend on, whose mere name invokes nostalgic feelings longsince passed. It was heartwarming to follow Mr. Ward on his journey to the country he had known as a child to find the friend he remembered. If only more stories like this about Iran could be written...
Profile Image for Craig.
228 reviews
October 9, 2020
A marvelous non-fiction book for those westerners (like me) who understand so little about Iran and its history. A wonderful exploration of the country, its people, and its pain. I particularly loved its discussion of Hafez and the great ancient city of Persepolis.
3 reviews
August 6, 2020
A wonderful, wonderful book! It was fascinating reading about a country that I knew little of but always thought the people must be wonderful. I thoroughly enjoyed the geographical descriptions, too. What a trip and so difficult but in the end very rewarding.
Profile Image for Shirin.
55 reviews12 followers
September 22, 2024
حس می کنم ترجمه تحریف زیادی داشت، وگرنه یه خارجی هیچ وقت اینجوری در مورد یه سری مسائل تعریف و تمجید نمیکنه.
متوجهید که؟
6 reviews
September 26, 2020
Not the Iran you may think

This is a revealing look at an Iran we never hear about. There’s a lot to learn from this true story. I hope that we will evolve enough to learn from this experience.
Profile Image for Najme Khadem.
17 reviews13 followers
December 8, 2018
روایت یک آمریکایی از سفرش به ایران به همراه خانواده اش برای یافتن "حسن" آشپز سابقشان در دوران پیش از انقلاب و دهه شصت میلادی.
کتاب به همان شکلی که از خاطرات سفر می گوید روایت روزها و سالهای گذشته شده بر ایران و روان جمعی مان رو یادآوری میکند. امیدواری ها، حسرت ها، شکوه ها و غم هایمان. تداعی توامان و شیرین شهرزاد و ملانصرالدین و کوروش و غزل های حافظ در کنار بدبیاری ها و خودکامگی ها و سختی ها و دشمنی ها و رنج هایمان؛ کتاب را سخت جذاب کرده و در زمره بهترین سفرنامه ها قرار داده است.
3 reviews
December 13, 2007
I'd call the book a "hard" read for the average reader, not because the language is difficult, but because it is such a rich piece of work that you simply can not rush through it. So rich, in fact, that you have to absorb bits at a time and let it sink in. This is a gorgeous recollection by Terence Ward and is about him and his 3 brothers and parents, as they return to Iran during a time when it was not so safe for travelling foreigners, to rediscover a part of their childhood and past. The Wards have not been back to Iran since the 1960's and this adventure takes place around about 1998. The Ward family travels to desinations near and far and the prose that Ward uses to describe the terrain and people, and to also weave their past back into the story is nothing short of breathtaking. He is truly a gifted writer with a special talent for capturing moments and people and experiences, managing to flawlessly translate them into colorful prose. Searching for Hassan comes to fruition towards the end of the book, and is a beautiful story in and of itself. But I highly reccommend this book as a informative source on culture and history.
Profile Image for Aubrey.
198 reviews3 followers
May 6, 2010
On the bright side, this book had moments that were engaging, insightful, or enlightening, but only moments. For example, I loved learning about the origin of the Sunni/Shia divide. I enjoyed the glimpses into Iranian history and culture and now have a better understanding of how much I *don't* know.

However, in general, I found the story and history difficult to follow. All the places, names, and history were so unfamiliar that it was difficult to digest in this format (without maps, time lines, photos, etc...).

I also resented the generally anti-American sentiment throughout. It was often blatant, obnoxious and offensive. While Ward is entitled to his opinion, it made me wonder who his intended audience was. If he is writing to an American audience, his American readers might feel put off by his blanket statements describing them "arrogant, smug, narrow-minded, and naive." (pg 152)

So, I didn't finish it. I read just past the photos in the middle. I'm sure there are plenty of better books to widen my understanding of Iran.
Profile Image for James Klagge.
Author13 books95 followers
September 13, 2014
The story of a family's trip to Iran in 1998 to try to find a family who had worked for them for several years in the 1960s in Teheran. In the course of the story we learn a lot about Iranian geography, history and culture. Spoiler alert: they do find their family. The story is well-told and the Iranians are sympathetically presented.
What resonated with me was the notion of searching out and reconnecting with a time/place from the past. After working and living in Appalachian Eastern Kentucky for 3 summers, I returned with my kids for a short visit 15 years later. After having studied at UCLA for 7 years and living nearby, I returned for a visit for the first time 17 years later. And with the assistance of friends in Brno, my kids and I searched out 3rd cousins in the Czech Republic who my parents and grandparents had last seen 23 years earlier. While each of these experiences were different in various ways from the book's story, they each had elements that were similar.
Profile Image for Katya.
121 reviews10 followers
March 17, 2014
A very romantic view on Iran. Author`s nostalgic memories of his childhood in Iran doesn`t let him describe Iran, its culture and people objectively. I would also say that his knowledge of Iran and Farsi (as far as I could see in the book) is quite shallow and based on what he heard from Iranians (which should never be considered as truth).
Ward is trying to show that Iran is not so isolated from the rest of the world and its people know Western culture pretty well, but maybe he would change his mind if he talked not only to Majid Majidi and Tehran intellectuals, but also to ordinary people.
What really surprised is he hates the Shah and speaks in favor of the Islamic revolution, which is very different from what foreigners usually think about Iran.
9 reviews
September 6, 2016
Terence Ward does a wonderful job of telling the common man's story. He effectively combines pre-Islamic history, Islam history, and Revolutionary history with the story of his family and their quest for their close friend. Not only was I able to learn about religious and political conflicts, I was also introduced to many life lessons: such as the importance of friendship. Ward also brings a twist to the cliché, don't judge a book by its cove!
7 reviews
February 11, 2009
This is a beautiful story of an American man who travels back to Iran looking for his family friend. Hassan was a little bit of everything to their family, and through the years became a part of their family. When they moved away from Iran after the fall of the Shah, they always wondered what came of Hassan and his family, so in 1998 he and his family went back to find him.
Profile Image for Lynda Murphy.
83 reviews
November 17, 2020
I love reading books that give an insight on different cultures. This book however was an insufferably boring read. The flowery language used made it difficult to focus on the story. Looks like I'll be getting my knowledge on this culture from a different source. I never give up on a book but this came close.
Profile Image for Bahman Bahman.
Author3 books238 followers
July 31, 2021
جایی دور، در تخیلات خود می‌دانست� که شاهزاده‌ای� عاشق برزگری شجاع شده و یا شاهزاده دیگری با ملوانی جوان به دنبال سرنوشت خود فرار کرده. امید، حسن به ما می‌گف� که «همیشه باید به آینده امیدوار بود.»

کسانی که برای خانواده ما کار می‌کردن� فقط حسن و فاطمه نبودند بلکه مادر فاطمه، خورشید، که معمولاً از دو بچه فاطمه، علی و مهدی، نگهداری می‌کرد� و برادر حسن، محمد که اخیراً از ارتش اخراج شده بود، زیرا جیپ ارتشی را چپ کرده بود نیز اضافه شده بودند. محمد چون کار دیگری نداشت، راننده خانواده ما شده بود. ما معمولاً در صندلی عقب می‌نشستیم� و او با رانندگان اتومبیل‌ها� دیگر و عابران سر و کله می‌ز�. ما هم مجبور می‌شدی� خودمان را محکم نگه داریم که در صورت ترمزهای ناگهانی راننده، به شیشه جلو اصابت نکنیم! یک بار، حسن از مادرم خواست که به جای برادرش محمد، به اداره پلیس مراجعه کند، زیرا کاشف به عمل آمده که اتومبیل ما یک ��خلف رانندگی داشته و حسن هم، بحق، می‌ترسی� که اگر برادرش به پلیس مراجعه کند، گواهی‌نام� خود را از دست بدهد.

حسن با روشی آرام و توأم با شوخ‌طبعی� به نحوی شایسته، زندگی همه ما را اداره می‌کر�. با اینکه حسن رسماً اداره‌کنند� امور خانواده ما بود، ولی برای ما خیلی بیشتر از آن بود. او مانند «ویرجیل» همیشه راهنمای ما بود. از بازارهای تاریک گرفته تا یاد دادن آداب و رسوم محلی، با عشق و علاقه‌ا� که برای درک فرهنگ او لازم بود و کار ما را آسان می‌کر�.

او قسمت مهمی از زندگی ما شده بود. تصورات و تخیلات ما را می‌ساخ� و دنیای ما را وسیع‌ت� می‌کر�. حسن جثه‌ا� نه چندان بلندقد، اما قوی و عضلانی داشت. چهره آرام و سبیل‌ها� مشکی و جالب او از حکمت عامیانه و دانایی طنزآمیزش حکایت می‌کر�.

با نبودن تلویزیون در آن زمان، او قصه‌ها� مضحک و عجیب و غریب ملانصرالدین را برای ما تعری�� می‌کر� که در آنها مسائل پیچیده زندگی و راه‌حل‌ها� زیرکانه و در عین حال خنده‌آو� ارائه می‌ش�. در چشمان او همیشه جرقه‌ا� برق می‌ز�.

ما همیشه انتظار می‌کشیدی� که حسن ما را برای دیدن نوازندگان دوره‌گر� و حاجی فیروز خبر کند. حاجی فیروز، دلقکی بود که صورت خود را سیاه می‌کر� و درست قبل از فرا رسیدن سال نو، هنگام برگزاری جشن‌ه� و مبادله هدایا، رقص‌کنان� مقابل درب خانه‌ه� ظاهر می‌ش�.
Profile Image for Todd Smith.
Author1 book4 followers
February 15, 2021
This book is about the author’s search for a beloved family friend that was a deep part of their family when he was a boy.

Terence Ward grew up in Tehran in Iran in the 1960s watched over by Hassan, the family’s cook, housekeeper, and cultural guide.

Then they left the country before the fall of the Shah of Iran in 1979 and the turmoil and changes that followed.

The next chance they had to return to Iran to see about their close family friend was thirty years later in the 1990s.

You follow his journey back to Iran, a quixotic pilgrimage with his family in search of him with only a few clues of where he might be, but with a determination to find him.

Crossing Iran Ward explores modern and Iran and the county he remembers.

I learned a lot about Iran from this book. The complicated relationship it has with the outside world and the people who live there.

It is an excellent book for anybody who wants to gain a better understanding of Iran and its people and not what we’ve seen from the television and leaders.

It was a fascinating read.













Profile Image for Gayle Slagle.
429 reviews11 followers
May 24, 2021
Searching for Hassan: A journey to the Heart of Iran by Terence Ward is both an informative and interesting book. The book is infused with the history and heritage of Iran, but the heart of the book tells the story of the Ward family and the influence that this country had on them. Living in Iran in the 1960's with his parents and his three brothers, Ward grew to love both the country and its people. The family forms a deep bond with Hassan, the man who serves as their cook, but who also educates the sons on the culture and history of Iran and instills in them a love of the country that remains into adulthood. Years after the family has returned to the U.S. they decide to return to Iran and find Hassan and his family. What follows is a story that creates a personal connection to the people of Iran; the connection between the Ward family and Hassan's family is an inspirational story of an American family that loves and admires Iran, its people, and its culture. It will leave you with an better understanding of Iran and more importantly, its people.
Profile Image for Endah.
285 reviews152 followers
October 26, 2008
aku baca edisi Indonesianya, terbitan Rajut Publishing (2007)

Judul Buku : The Hidden Face of Iran
Judul asli : Searching for Hassan; a journey to the heart of Iran
Penulis : Terrence Ward
Penerjemah : Berliani M.Nugrahani
Penerbit : Rajut Publishing
Cetakan I, Maret 2007
Tebal : 579 hlm

Searching for Hassan, demikian judul asli buku terbitan Rajut Publishing ini. Hassan adalah pelayan rumah tangga keluarga Ward selama mereka tinggal di Iran pada tahun 1960-an. Hassan, sejenak membuat saya terkenang tokoh cerita pada novel indah The Kite Runner karya Khaled Hosseini yang juga adalah seorang pelayan. Kedua Hassan di kedua buku ini, selain sebagai pelayan, juga sahabat bagi keluarga tempat mereka mengabdi. Bedanya, yang satu terjadi di dunia nyata di Iran (Searching for Hassan), yang lain merupakan kisah rekaan berlatar Afganistan (The Kite Runner).

Dalam edisi bahasa Indonesia, buku karya Terrence Ward ini berganti judul menjadi The Hidden Face of Iran dengan subjudul Catatan Perjalanan Warga Amerika Serikat Menembus Jantung Negeri Iran. Terrence Ward dilahirkan di Colorado, Amerika Serikat. Masa kecilnya dilewatkan di Arab Saudi dan Iran bersama-sama orang tua dan saudara-saudaranya. Kenangan manis di Iran inilah yang membawa Ward Family untuk kembali napak tilas mencoba menemukan Hassan bersama penggalan masa lalu itu.

Berbekal ingatan yang agak mengabur tentang sebuah desa bernama Tudeshk–kata yang sempat diucapkan Hassan mengenai nama kampungnya–Keluarga Ward memulai perjalanan mereka pada April 1998; menembus jantung Iran yang saat itu sedang gencar-gencarnya memusuhi "Setan Besar" Amerika Serikat. Iran akhir 1990-an sungguh sangat berbeda dibanding Iran 1960-an.

Pascarevolusi wajah Iran berubah drastis. Bekas monarkhi di bawah daulat Shah Reza Pahlevi itu sejak 1978 berganti pemerintahan menjadi Republik Islam, dan Ayatollah Rohullah Khomeini diangkat sebagai Pemimpin Tertinggi. Perubahan besar terjadi hampir di segala sektor kehidupan. Situasi sosial politik dan keamanan tak menentu. Gelombang pengungsipun terjadilah tanpa mampu dicegah. Jumlahnya mencapai hingga jutaan orang.

Rasa tidak aman itu semakin menjadi-jadi ketika secara tiba-tiba pecah perang dengan tetangga: Irak. Saddam Hussein masuk dan melakukan invasi di provinsi barat daya Iran. Dan lazimnya terjadi pada daerah-daerah yang berkonflik, tak ayal lagi korban jiwapun berjatuhan dari kedua belah pihak. Rakyatlah yang paling sengsara.

Iran di bawah Imam Khomeini sangat anti Barat, terutama Amerika. Mantra ritual "Marg bar Amrika, Matilah Amerika" senantiasa diserukan para mullah sembari tangan mengepal meninju udara. Roda pemerintahan dijalankan dengan syariat Islam, Syiah khususnya. Hukum cambuk diberlakukan. Para wanita dikekang dan diwajibkan memakai cadar hitam, serta menolak keras segala hal yang berhubungan dengan dunia Barat.

Kondisi seperti itu berlangsung bertahun-tahun. Iran seakan-akan terputus hubungan dan menutup diri dari dunia luar. Tak banyak berita tersiar dari dalamnya. Hanya orang-orang nekatlah yang berani masuk dan menjelajah negara Islam fundamentalis itu.

Hingga pada Agustus 1997 seorang ulama moderat, Mohammad Khatami terpilih sebagai presiden. Banyak orang menamakan periode indah ini sebagai "Musim Semi Teheran". Dalam sebuah wawancara di CNN dengan Christine Amanpour pada 7 Januari 1998, Presiden Khatami mengatakan, bahwa ia menyambut baik pertukaran kebudayaan. Dia menawarkan perdamaian dengan Washington untuk pertama kalinya sejak kejatuhan Shah pada 1979 dan mengatakan tentang berbicara "dari mulut ke mulut" dengan warga Amerika (hlm.37).

Terpilihnya Khatami segera saja membawa angin segar bagi dunia. Presiden baru yang fasih bicara dalam bahasa Inggris dan Jerman ini berani mengemukakan soal reformasi, demokrasi, serta menjanjikan perubahan tentang sebuah wajah Islam yang lebih lembut dan baik. Iapun segera saja menangguk dukungan luas dari berbagai kalangan, khususnya para wanita dan generasi muda Iran. Tak heran jika kemudian rakyatnya memberinya julukan "Ayatollah Gorbachev".

Situasi bersahabat inilah yang lantas dimafaatkan Ward sekeluarga untuk mendatangi kembali Iran, negeri yang sudah mereka anggap sebagai kampung halaman; menjelajah gurun-gurun pasirnya, menikmati syair-syair karya pujangga ternama, seperti Rumi dan Hafez; mengagumi keajaiban geologi alamnya; merenungi sejarahnya, dan tentu tak lupa tujuan utama: menemukan Hassan, sahabat mereka, setelah berpisah 30 tahun lamanya.

Buku yang sepenuhnya memuat kisah perjalanan ini (sebetulnya) sangat menarik. Di dalamnya kita mendapatkan banyak pengetahuan mengenai seluk-beluk negara Iran dan juga Timur Tengah : lanskap alamnya, kebudayaan, tradisi kuno, kesenian tradisional, kesusastraan, film, sosial politik, hingga agama (Islam Syiah). Selama membacanya, saya seolah-olah sedang menonton tayangan acara National Geography.

Terry, demikian nama kecil Terrence Ward, menampilkan begitu banyak detail, sehingga kita seperti membaca sebuah jurnal ilmiah atau laporan jurnalistik. Sangat informatif sebenarnya, meski di beberapa bagian sedikit terasa bertele-tele dan membosankan. Terry banyak mengutip buku-buku yang menjadi referensinya.

Ihwal berhasil-tidaknya keluarga Ward bertemu Hassan, sesungguhnya bisa menjadi daya pikat buku ini andai saja tidak ada "kecelakaan" kecil yang, menurut saya, sangat fatal, yaitu kehadiran tiga lembar foto tentang pertemuan dengan Hassan di tengah-tengah buku. Padahal yang membuat saya tetap bertahan membaca hingga separuh buku adalah karena ingin tahu apakah akhirnya keluarga Amerika keturunan Irlandia itu berhasil berjumpa dengan Hassan. Walaupun tetap saya lanjutkan pembacaan saya, namun greget itu sudah hilang. Antiklimaks rasanya.
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