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In Search of Perfumes: A Lifetime Journey to the Source of Nature's Scents
In this intoxicating concoction of history, travelogue, and memoir, one of the perfume industry's leading scouts of natural ingredients tells the story of the precious ingredients needed to make our favorite fragrances.
Do you know how many flowers it takes to produce a kilo of rose oil? One million roses, each handpicked. When it comes to nature, Dominique Roques is a unique authority. He has spent the last thirty years working closely with local communities across the globe to establish a sustainable supply of natural ingredients crucial to perfume making.
From resin cultivated by traditional methods in El Salvador to rose oil distilleries in India as old as the Taj Mahal, his network reveals an elusive trade built on the fault lines of tradition and modernity. With In Search of Perfumes, Roques tells the story of seventeen of the industry's most precious ingredients-where they come from, their cultural and historic significance, and why we love them--from Indonesian patchouli to the "Damask rose," interweaving his own recollections and reflections on his life and work.
From Andalusia to Somaliland, Roques takes us on an exclusive tour of a vast but delicate ecosystem wholly sustained by the artisans who are its caretakers. Isolated and rural, the tropical jungles of northern Laos remain to this day the only source of benzoin that centuries earlier wafted through the air of Louis XIV's court. In Madagascar, where every transaction is made in cash, a caravan of porters carry pallets bearing $500,000 dollars to exchange for vanilla beans. The Venezuelan tonka bean, as fickle as the weather, may refuse to flower for years but is so esteemed by perfumers that patience becomes its truest virtue. Everywhere Roques takes us, his infectious curiosity and amiability illuminate an immersive world of the uncharted.
Entertaining and eye-opening, decorated with beautiful black-and-white illustrations, In Search of Perfumes is an irresistible exploration of the smells that fuel our nostalgia and suffuse our fantasies.
Translated from the French by Stephanie Smee
Do you know how many flowers it takes to produce a kilo of rose oil? One million roses, each handpicked. When it comes to nature, Dominique Roques is a unique authority. He has spent the last thirty years working closely with local communities across the globe to establish a sustainable supply of natural ingredients crucial to perfume making.
From resin cultivated by traditional methods in El Salvador to rose oil distilleries in India as old as the Taj Mahal, his network reveals an elusive trade built on the fault lines of tradition and modernity. With In Search of Perfumes, Roques tells the story of seventeen of the industry's most precious ingredients-where they come from, their cultural and historic significance, and why we love them--from Indonesian patchouli to the "Damask rose," interweaving his own recollections and reflections on his life and work.
From Andalusia to Somaliland, Roques takes us on an exclusive tour of a vast but delicate ecosystem wholly sustained by the artisans who are its caretakers. Isolated and rural, the tropical jungles of northern Laos remain to this day the only source of benzoin that centuries earlier wafted through the air of Louis XIV's court. In Madagascar, where every transaction is made in cash, a caravan of porters carry pallets bearing $500,000 dollars to exchange for vanilla beans. The Venezuelan tonka bean, as fickle as the weather, may refuse to flower for years but is so esteemed by perfumers that patience becomes its truest virtue. Everywhere Roques takes us, his infectious curiosity and amiability illuminate an immersive world of the uncharted.
Entertaining and eye-opening, decorated with beautiful black-and-white illustrations, In Search of Perfumes is an irresistible exploration of the smells that fuel our nostalgia and suffuse our fantasies.
Translated from the French by Stephanie Smee
304 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2021
75 people are currently reading
955 people want to read
About the author
Dominique Roques
52?books18?followersDominique Roques est n¨¦e en 1948 ¨¤ Casablanca. Quelques ann¨¦es plus tard, en Belgique, elle a deux fils qui partagent son go?t pour la bande dessin¨¦e humoristique. L'a?n¨¦ de ses fils, Alexis Dormal, dessine depuis toujours des personnages pleins de vie. Si pleins de vie qu'il est vite devenu insupportable ¨¤ Dominique de les abandonner ¨¤ peine n¨¦s. Elle d¨¦cide donc de leur faire des "transfusions" d'histoires, trouvant les donneurs... en elle et tout autour d'elle.
Ainsi tchatchent, galopent et d¨¦vorent Pico, Ana Ana et les autres.
Dominique Roques was the head of sourcing at Firmenich, a Swiss company which provides the world's leading perfume brands with natural fragrances, essences, and extracts. Over the last thirty years he has worked with companies such as Bulgari, Thierry Mugler, Guerlain and Yves Saint Laurent.
Ainsi tchatchent, galopent et d¨¦vorent Pico, Ana Ana et les autres.
Dominique Roques was the head of sourcing at Firmenich, a Swiss company which provides the world's leading perfume brands with natural fragrances, essences, and extracts. Over the last thirty years he has worked with companies such as Bulgari, Thierry Mugler, Guerlain and Yves Saint Laurent.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 73 reviews
March 2, 2023
What a great book! Yep, a book on perfume wrapped me in its charm and the tales of over 15 different flowers, plants, trees and grasses that are used to make some of the worlds finest perfumes. Learned so very much about the perfume industry, the workers that pick the flowers or tap the trees, as well as what the perfume industry does to promote education, welfare and provide infrastructure to the area the scents come from, most all of which are ignored by their countries. So many wonderful stories about Sandalwood (most all of which is now grown in Australia), the difference between Vanilla and Vanillin, Lavender and Lavenderin, as well as Bulgarian Roses. Great book that is easy to read and can be read at one chapter at a time and put down until you feel in the mood for more perfumes. Well done, to put it mildly!
Shelved as '2023'
June 14, 2024? Thank you to NetGalley and HarperVia
October 6, 2024
Un libro muy curioso y bonito. Dominique Roques es un franc¨¦s dedicado a la provisi¨®n de esencias naturales para la industria de la perfumer¨ªa, y a lo largo de las p¨¢ginas intenta transmitir su amor por el oficio, lo natural, la esencia del negocio y de lo sensorial de los perfumes.
Cada cap¨ªtulo recoge una breve historia sobre el origen o la actualidad de una esencia (patchul¨ª, s¨¢ndalo, incienso, vainilla...) y la de los trabajadores que lo cultivan, gracias a los cuales ha conocido los secretos de estas plantas y las artes de su cultivo. Tiene una estructura muy repetitiva en ese sentido, que da poco lugar a sorpresas. S¨ª, en cambio, tiene un apreciable valor hist¨®rico, empresarial y casi cient¨ªfico. Adem¨¢s, el libro se lee bastante r¨¢pido.
Por todo ello, 4 estrellas.
Cada cap¨ªtulo recoge una breve historia sobre el origen o la actualidad de una esencia (patchul¨ª, s¨¢ndalo, incienso, vainilla...) y la de los trabajadores que lo cultivan, gracias a los cuales ha conocido los secretos de estas plantas y las artes de su cultivo. Tiene una estructura muy repetitiva en ese sentido, que da poco lugar a sorpresas. S¨ª, en cambio, tiene un apreciable valor hist¨®rico, empresarial y casi cient¨ªfico. Adem¨¢s, el libro se lee bastante r¨¢pido.
Por todo ello, 4 estrellas.
June 2, 2023
Acompa?amos al autor en un viaje que nos lleva desde los campos de l¨¢ndano en Andaluc¨ªa, los de lavanda en La Provenza o los de bergamota calabresa hasta las plantaciones de rosas en India, Ir¨¢n o Turqu¨ªa, a buscar palisandro en La Guayana, s¨¢ndalo en la India, canela en Sri Lanka, benju¨ª en Laos, vainilla en Madagascar, pachuli en Indonesia, vetiver en Hait¨ª, oud en Banglad¨¦s e incienso en Somalilandia.
Me ha parecido un libro muy interesante¡ me ha gustado.
Me ha parecido un libro muy interesante¡ me ha gustado.
February 22, 2023
Dominique Roque, a sourcing agent working in the perfume industry, recounts his travels and travails in pursuit of natural ingredients used in perfumes and dives into the storied history and often precarious methods of the producers of those raw materials.
Perfume is a ubiquitous thing, to the point that you don¡¯t really even register it. I have several bottles sitting on my dresser right now. But I¡¯d never really thought about where the components of which they are composed of, which was why I found In Search of Perfumes so fascinating.
Roques has been a sourcing agent for thirty years, and his work has taken him all over the world to some very remote and beautiful places in that time. The best part of this book is how vividly he was able to recreate these places, painting lush scenes and of course evoking the scents that one might encounter here. Equally enjoyable is the true appreciation that Roques has for the industry and the far-flung people he has met over the course of his work. His care and curiosity shines through.
However, while I always enjoyed the reading about the production of the various ingredients, I did feel that the chapters began running into each other by the end, especially as we end on a trio of trees which whose stories have many parallels. I wouldn¡¯t say that content should be cut ¨C for every chapter is really very interesting and well-written ¨C but this is definitely a book that cannot be binged.
Disclaimer: I received an ARC of this book from NetGalley. This is my honest and voluntary review.
Perfume is a ubiquitous thing, to the point that you don¡¯t really even register it. I have several bottles sitting on my dresser right now. But I¡¯d never really thought about where the components of which they are composed of, which was why I found In Search of Perfumes so fascinating.
Roques has been a sourcing agent for thirty years, and his work has taken him all over the world to some very remote and beautiful places in that time. The best part of this book is how vividly he was able to recreate these places, painting lush scenes and of course evoking the scents that one might encounter here. Equally enjoyable is the true appreciation that Roques has for the industry and the far-flung people he has met over the course of his work. His care and curiosity shines through.
However, while I always enjoyed the reading about the production of the various ingredients, I did feel that the chapters began running into each other by the end, especially as we end on a trio of trees which whose stories have many parallels. I wouldn¡¯t say that content should be cut ¨C for every chapter is really very interesting and well-written ¨C but this is definitely a book that cannot be binged.
Disclaimer: I received an ARC of this book from NetGalley. This is my honest and voluntary review.
July 29, 2022
Lu dans le cadre du Prix des lecteurs Livre de poche 2022
Je garde un avis mitig¨¦ sur cette lecture, qui m'a quand m¨ºme dur¨¦ 3 semaines. Heureusement, les chapitres sont courts et traitent chacun d'une essence (fleur, arbre, r¨¦sine...).
D'un c?t¨¦, je suis une fan absolue du roman "Le parfum", et certains termes et ressentis m'ont rappel¨¦ des souvenirs. J'ai particuli¨¨rement aim¨¦ le chapitre sur la lavande, forc¨¦ment, d'autant plus que j'¨¦tais en vacances dans les Alpes peu de temps apr¨¨s.
De l'autre, j'ai ¨¦t¨¦ g¨ºn¨¦e par certains aspects : difficile de ne pas voir que l'auteur, blanc et ais¨¦, s'¨¦merveille devant les paysans "du bout du monde" chez qui il se fournit en mati¨¨res premi¨¨res. On a litt¨¦ralement des passages sur les enfants qui jouent avec un b?ton et un bout de ficelle. Comment ¨¦crire des paragraphes entiers sur un merveilleux flacon de parfum (apr¨¨s recherche, il vaut 400 euros pi¨¨ce), alors m¨ºme que les artisans du d¨¦but de cha?ne vivent dans la mis¨¨re ? Que les ressources s'amenuisent ¨¤ force de piocher pour satisfaire la client¨¨le? Et que l'auteur prend l'avion un nombre incalculable de fois, parfois seulement pour visiter une exploitation ?
Pour moi, c'est un essai un peu "hors sol", plein de privil¨¨ges et qui ne m'a pas forc¨¦ment touch¨¦e.
Je garde un avis mitig¨¦ sur cette lecture, qui m'a quand m¨ºme dur¨¦ 3 semaines. Heureusement, les chapitres sont courts et traitent chacun d'une essence (fleur, arbre, r¨¦sine...).
D'un c?t¨¦, je suis une fan absolue du roman "Le parfum", et certains termes et ressentis m'ont rappel¨¦ des souvenirs. J'ai particuli¨¨rement aim¨¦ le chapitre sur la lavande, forc¨¦ment, d'autant plus que j'¨¦tais en vacances dans les Alpes peu de temps apr¨¨s.
De l'autre, j'ai ¨¦t¨¦ g¨ºn¨¦e par certains aspects : difficile de ne pas voir que l'auteur, blanc et ais¨¦, s'¨¦merveille devant les paysans "du bout du monde" chez qui il se fournit en mati¨¨res premi¨¨res. On a litt¨¦ralement des passages sur les enfants qui jouent avec un b?ton et un bout de ficelle. Comment ¨¦crire des paragraphes entiers sur un merveilleux flacon de parfum (apr¨¨s recherche, il vaut 400 euros pi¨¨ce), alors m¨ºme que les artisans du d¨¦but de cha?ne vivent dans la mis¨¨re ? Que les ressources s'amenuisent ¨¤ force de piocher pour satisfaire la client¨¨le? Et que l'auteur prend l'avion un nombre incalculable de fois, parfois seulement pour visiter une exploitation ?
Pour moi, c'est un essai un peu "hors sol", plein de privil¨¨ges et qui ne m'a pas forc¨¦ment touch¨¦e.
March 21, 2023
As an Aromatherapist I can¡¯t tell you how thrilled I was to stumble upon this book. And then to start reading it, I was instantly transported to the hills, the fields, the forests where these majestic plants flourish. Intimately familiar with the aromas discussed, I was fascinated by the stories of the families, landowners and harvesters. Fortunately my cabinet is filled with exquisite oils so I was able to enjoy the aroma right along with the readings and that was entirely next level. Brimming with historical information, it¡¯s a beautifully written, highly enjoyable tribute to a life¡¯s work in the world of scent.
January 16, 2022
¡°Non dimenticarti di dire che tutte le foreste ricrescono, da sole o con un po¡¯ d¡¯aiuto, gli alberi non portano rancore, hanno solo molto pi¨´ tempo di noi.¡±
September 15, 2023
Roques¡¯s job was (is?) sourcing natural fragrance materials for high end perfume houses. He does this not just by sitting at a desk, but by going to the sites where the materials are gathered- to Provence for the very best lavender, Italy for bergamot, Andalusia for cistus tears, etc. Each chapter chronicles his visits to the producers- sometimes farmers of their own land, sometimes migrant workers, sometimes gatherers in the forests and jungles and deserts- one fragrant material per chapter. Most of the time, he writes not just about one trip, but several trips through the years, to see where the material comes from and how it¡¯s harvested, to find out what the producers and gatherers need to survive and have good lives, because he doesn¡¯t want to take advantage of the people, some of whom have lives that we¡¯d consider very primitive. He doesn¡¯t just make money for his clients and himself, but makes deals so the workers can have medical care and schools.
While the book wasn¡¯t what I thought it would be- I thought it would be more about the fragrance materials- it was pretty interesting. I had never thought about how the people lived who gathered rose petals, or bergamot oranges, or the gums like cistus or frankincense. It¡¯s good to know where the materials in those oh so expensive perfumes come from and what progress is doing to the areas they grow in!
While the book wasn¡¯t what I thought it would be- I thought it would be more about the fragrance materials- it was pretty interesting. I had never thought about how the people lived who gathered rose petals, or bergamot oranges, or the gums like cistus or frankincense. It¡¯s good to know where the materials in those oh so expensive perfumes come from and what progress is doing to the areas they grow in!
December 11, 2023
Je suis tomb¨¦e sur ce livre en faisant des recherches sur l'industrie du parfum. Depuis environ un an, les parfums me passionnent en tant qu'objet d'art olfactif, oui, mais aussi gr?ce ¨¤ leur longue histoire par¨¦e de prestige, de myst¨¨re, mais aussi de trag¨¦die. J'¨¦tais curieuse d'en apprendre plus sur les mati¨¨res premi¨¨res, ces ingr¨¦dients utilis¨¦s pour concocter des odeurs et des m¨¦langes particuliers.
? la limite entre une biographie, un roman, un conte, des anecdotes et un documentaire, ce livre est un petit bijou pour ceux qui veulent en savoir plus sur les mati¨¨res premi¨¨res. Dominique Roques est un sourceur, le pont entre les parfumeurs et les producteurs de mati¨¨res premi¨¨res. Chaque chapitre dans ce document est d¨¦di¨¦ ¨¤ une mati¨¨re premi¨¨re et il y raconte ses anecdotes et ses souvenirs. La plume de l'auteure est romanesque, ses souvenirs sont bien rendus sur page, on se sent transport¨¦ ¨¤ chaque lieu. Dans chaque chapitre, on y re?oit un cours d'¨¦conomie, d'histoire, de g¨¦opolitique, de science, de religion et d'agriculture. C'est une lecture dense, oui, mais passionnante pour ceux qui veulent en apprendre plus. Ce roman m'a permi d'avoir une meilleure appr¨¦ciation pour tout le travail qui va derri¨¨re l'¨¦laboration des parfums. En Occident, on le consid¨¨re comme un objet de luxe issu du capitalisme, mais ailleurs, il est un objet sacr¨¦, parfois religieux. Ses mati¨¨res premi¨¨res sont le gagne-pain de plusieurs. Agriculteurs, travailleurs, hommes, femmes, enfants... Tous y mettent leur sueur et leur sang.
J'ai un respect renouvel¨¦ et une envie de visiter ces lieux mythiques qui contribuent ¨¤ la cr¨¦ation des parfums. Suite ¨¤ ma lecture, j'ai envie de d¨¦velopper mon nez et de sentir ces ingr¨¦dients ¨¤ leur source. Tout mon respect va ¨¤ ces travailleurs de l'ombre qui cultivent des ingr¨¦dients convoit¨¦s par plusieurs, parfois teint¨¦s de sang, de corruption, mais aussi d'amour et de respect de la nature.
? la limite entre une biographie, un roman, un conte, des anecdotes et un documentaire, ce livre est un petit bijou pour ceux qui veulent en savoir plus sur les mati¨¨res premi¨¨res. Dominique Roques est un sourceur, le pont entre les parfumeurs et les producteurs de mati¨¨res premi¨¨res. Chaque chapitre dans ce document est d¨¦di¨¦ ¨¤ une mati¨¨re premi¨¨re et il y raconte ses anecdotes et ses souvenirs. La plume de l'auteure est romanesque, ses souvenirs sont bien rendus sur page, on se sent transport¨¦ ¨¤ chaque lieu. Dans chaque chapitre, on y re?oit un cours d'¨¦conomie, d'histoire, de g¨¦opolitique, de science, de religion et d'agriculture. C'est une lecture dense, oui, mais passionnante pour ceux qui veulent en apprendre plus. Ce roman m'a permi d'avoir une meilleure appr¨¦ciation pour tout le travail qui va derri¨¨re l'¨¦laboration des parfums. En Occident, on le consid¨¨re comme un objet de luxe issu du capitalisme, mais ailleurs, il est un objet sacr¨¦, parfois religieux. Ses mati¨¨res premi¨¨res sont le gagne-pain de plusieurs. Agriculteurs, travailleurs, hommes, femmes, enfants... Tous y mettent leur sueur et leur sang.
J'ai un respect renouvel¨¦ et une envie de visiter ces lieux mythiques qui contribuent ¨¤ la cr¨¦ation des parfums. Suite ¨¤ ma lecture, j'ai envie de d¨¦velopper mon nez et de sentir ces ingr¨¦dients ¨¤ leur source. Tout mon respect va ¨¤ ces travailleurs de l'ombre qui cultivent des ingr¨¦dients convoit¨¦s par plusieurs, parfois teint¨¦s de sang, de corruption, mais aussi d'amour et de respect de la nature.
March 23, 2025
This is a fascinating book about one man's global journey to find the 15 most coveted botanicals used in perfumery. The illustrations are lovely, and you can almost smell the fragrances.
May 22, 2024
Me sorprende que este libro tenga rese?as tan altas cuando es un intento descarado de lavar la imagen de la industria perfumera. Vamos, pura propaganda.
Solo tres explotaciones de materias primas descritas en este libro (el l¨¢dano en Huelva, la lavanda de un productor concreto de Grasse y la bergamota siciliana) no se encuentran en el Sur global. El resto: Sri Lanka, el Salvador, Laos, la India, Somalia, Egipto, Madagascar, Hait¨ª. Estos dos ¨²ltimos en concreto son de los pa¨ªses m¨¢s pobres del mundo. Lo que se describe en este libro es un puto expolio y a¨²n as¨ª se vende como "qu¨¦ bien, nuestra industria da de comer a mucha gente" sin hacer ning¨²n tipo de cr¨ªtica sobre c¨®mo la industria afecta a la presencia de mafias, contrabandistas, inestabilidad econ¨®mica, corrupci¨®n... El mismo hecho de que no existan opciones de desarrollo m¨¢s all¨¢ del comercio con Europa no es algo de lo que Europa pueda estar orgullosa, m¨¢s bien al contrario: es la ruina en la que Europa ha sumido al resto de pa¨ªses. Pero todo esto se muestra al lector con sintagmas vac¨ªos, "mejores precios a los productores", "etiquetas bio" y "desarrollo sostenible", como si el sector estuviera mejorando o algo.
Durante un cap¨ªtulo entero, el propio autor comenta los dilemas ¨¦ticos que le suscitan viajar y negociar con regiones tan empobrecidas, lo consciente que le hace ser de su propio privilegio... Para luego concluir el cap¨ªtulo con todas las ideas edulcoradas de m¨¢s arriba. O encumbrando a se?ores y se?oras franceses y suizos que cobran un dineral como "maestros perfumeros". O romantizando la pobreza en pos de "el momento de ¨¦xtasis que supone oler las materias primas en la naturaleza, en el tiempo y lugar de su recolecci¨®n", a pesar de las duras condiciones que eso comporta para los que d¨ªa a d¨ªa desempe?an esa clase de trabajos.
Por muy buen escrito que est¨¦, y a pesar de lo muy interesante que sea como ejercicio sensorial y descriptivo, un libro as¨ª no se merece m¨¢s de una estrella.
Como me dijo Oliver: este es... El verdadero COLONIAlismo
Despu¨¦s de esto, voy a retomar el Quijote por la parte 2. Deseenme suerte!
Solo tres explotaciones de materias primas descritas en este libro (el l¨¢dano en Huelva, la lavanda de un productor concreto de Grasse y la bergamota siciliana) no se encuentran en el Sur global. El resto: Sri Lanka, el Salvador, Laos, la India, Somalia, Egipto, Madagascar, Hait¨ª. Estos dos ¨²ltimos en concreto son de los pa¨ªses m¨¢s pobres del mundo. Lo que se describe en este libro es un puto expolio y a¨²n as¨ª se vende como "qu¨¦ bien, nuestra industria da de comer a mucha gente" sin hacer ning¨²n tipo de cr¨ªtica sobre c¨®mo la industria afecta a la presencia de mafias, contrabandistas, inestabilidad econ¨®mica, corrupci¨®n... El mismo hecho de que no existan opciones de desarrollo m¨¢s all¨¢ del comercio con Europa no es algo de lo que Europa pueda estar orgullosa, m¨¢s bien al contrario: es la ruina en la que Europa ha sumido al resto de pa¨ªses. Pero todo esto se muestra al lector con sintagmas vac¨ªos, "mejores precios a los productores", "etiquetas bio" y "desarrollo sostenible", como si el sector estuviera mejorando o algo.
Durante un cap¨ªtulo entero, el propio autor comenta los dilemas ¨¦ticos que le suscitan viajar y negociar con regiones tan empobrecidas, lo consciente que le hace ser de su propio privilegio... Para luego concluir el cap¨ªtulo con todas las ideas edulcoradas de m¨¢s arriba. O encumbrando a se?ores y se?oras franceses y suizos que cobran un dineral como "maestros perfumeros". O romantizando la pobreza en pos de "el momento de ¨¦xtasis que supone oler las materias primas en la naturaleza, en el tiempo y lugar de su recolecci¨®n", a pesar de las duras condiciones que eso comporta para los que d¨ªa a d¨ªa desempe?an esa clase de trabajos.
Por muy buen escrito que est¨¦, y a pesar de lo muy interesante que sea como ejercicio sensorial y descriptivo, un libro as¨ª no se merece m¨¢s de una estrella.
Como me dijo Oliver: este es... El verdadero COLONIAlismo
Despu¨¦s de esto, voy a retomar el Quijote por la parte 2. Deseenme suerte!
October 14, 2022
Although I rarely read non-fiction, nor do I often wear perfume, I loved this book.
In this memoir Dominique Roques travels all over the world sourcing ingredients for the manufacture of perfume. While each chapter involves descriptions of plants, how they are farmed, and how they are subsequently processed, I found the fascinating stories of the people Roques encountered made the book special.
Roques describes heartbreaking social and economic landscapes where historical events such as wars, earthquakes and political upheavals have impacted the peoples of the countries he visits.
One part I did find particularly poignant was the dilemma of those entrenched in traditional farming versus the more efficient and cheaper modern alternatives. It was equal parts depressing and uplifting that without Roques¡¯ business partnership, some areas could be without any viable future. And that¡¯s before you focus on the ever-present threat of climate change hanging over their heads.
I admit I¡¯ve never really thought about why perfume is so expensive, however, reading In Search of Perfumes has made me appreciate the costs and resources involved in producing even the smallest drop of scent.
Highly recommend this informative and sometimes intimate read - 5 stars
*Thanks to Good Reading Magazine for my copy
In this memoir Dominique Roques travels all over the world sourcing ingredients for the manufacture of perfume. While each chapter involves descriptions of plants, how they are farmed, and how they are subsequently processed, I found the fascinating stories of the people Roques encountered made the book special.
Roques describes heartbreaking social and economic landscapes where historical events such as wars, earthquakes and political upheavals have impacted the peoples of the countries he visits.
One part I did find particularly poignant was the dilemma of those entrenched in traditional farming versus the more efficient and cheaper modern alternatives. It was equal parts depressing and uplifting that without Roques¡¯ business partnership, some areas could be without any viable future. And that¡¯s before you focus on the ever-present threat of climate change hanging over their heads.
I admit I¡¯ve never really thought about why perfume is so expensive, however, reading In Search of Perfumes has made me appreciate the costs and resources involved in producing even the smallest drop of scent.
Highly recommend this informative and sometimes intimate read - 5 stars
*Thanks to Good Reading Magazine for my copy
May 1, 2025
¡°Una tarde de abril, en Andaluc¨ªa, al doblar una curva en la comarca del And¨¦valo, me qued¨¦ deslumbrado ante el espect¨¢culo de los campos de l¨¢dano en flor, anuncio del hechizo que iba a experimentar al descubrir el perfume de esta tierra y a las gentes que lo recolectan¡±.
¡°Todos llevamos impresa para siempre la huella de una estela de lilas, de un camino bordeado de retama, del olor de los seres queridos¡±.
¡°El olor del jazm¨ªn encarna para m¨ª algo que pertenece al orden de la belleza absoluta. Al llegar a nuestro cerebro, el perfume de sus flores provoca una sensaci¨®n inmediata de felicidad. Narc¨®tico y cautivador, familiar y lejano a la vez, el jazm¨ªn nos turba, evocaci¨®n del dulzor de los jardines mediterr¨¢neos, mezclada con embriagadores efluvios ex¨®ticos, casi animales¡±.
¡°Con la mirra y el incienso, el perfume sobrepasa el mero registro del olor para entrar en la dimensi¨®n de la historia m¨¢s antigua, de figuras legendarias, rastros fabulosos, caravanas y civilizaciones desaparecidas. De este viaje tan largo que desaf¨ªa nuestros puntos de referencia, el perfume es un jal¨®n inmemorial¡±.
¡°Mi viaje a lo largo de todos estos a?os me ha hecho descubrir la alquimia que capta la sustancia arom¨¢tica de la tierra para refinarla antes de dispersarla en el aire. Al igual que el instrumento transforma el soplo del m¨²sico en una melod¨ªa, el alambique condensa el vapor en perfume en un truco de magia muy similar. El soplo y el vapor escapan del cobre para convertirse en m¨²sica o perfume, mensajeros de la belleza del mundo¡±.
¡°En los alambiques entran millones de flores, de ramas, de trozos de corteza y de granos de resina, portadores todos ellos de su propio proceso en la naturaleza, destilados para convertirse en elixires, ensamblados y, por ¨²ltimo, infinitamente concentrados en un frasco. Al abrir el frasco, el perfume explosiona y escapa, devolviendo poco a poco el entramado de las historias que le han confiado. Se abre camino, breve escala sobre nuestra piel, estela potente y cercana durante algunas horas. Despu¨¦s se aleja suavemente, desaparece para contar en el aire todo lo que le ha confiado la tierra en las fuentes de los perfumes del mundo¡±.
¡°Todos llevamos impresa para siempre la huella de una estela de lilas, de un camino bordeado de retama, del olor de los seres queridos¡±.
¡°El olor del jazm¨ªn encarna para m¨ª algo que pertenece al orden de la belleza absoluta. Al llegar a nuestro cerebro, el perfume de sus flores provoca una sensaci¨®n inmediata de felicidad. Narc¨®tico y cautivador, familiar y lejano a la vez, el jazm¨ªn nos turba, evocaci¨®n del dulzor de los jardines mediterr¨¢neos, mezclada con embriagadores efluvios ex¨®ticos, casi animales¡±.
¡°Con la mirra y el incienso, el perfume sobrepasa el mero registro del olor para entrar en la dimensi¨®n de la historia m¨¢s antigua, de figuras legendarias, rastros fabulosos, caravanas y civilizaciones desaparecidas. De este viaje tan largo que desaf¨ªa nuestros puntos de referencia, el perfume es un jal¨®n inmemorial¡±.
¡°Mi viaje a lo largo de todos estos a?os me ha hecho descubrir la alquimia que capta la sustancia arom¨¢tica de la tierra para refinarla antes de dispersarla en el aire. Al igual que el instrumento transforma el soplo del m¨²sico en una melod¨ªa, el alambique condensa el vapor en perfume en un truco de magia muy similar. El soplo y el vapor escapan del cobre para convertirse en m¨²sica o perfume, mensajeros de la belleza del mundo¡±.
¡°En los alambiques entran millones de flores, de ramas, de trozos de corteza y de granos de resina, portadores todos ellos de su propio proceso en la naturaleza, destilados para convertirse en elixires, ensamblados y, por ¨²ltimo, infinitamente concentrados en un frasco. Al abrir el frasco, el perfume explosiona y escapa, devolviendo poco a poco el entramado de las historias que le han confiado. Se abre camino, breve escala sobre nuestra piel, estela potente y cercana durante algunas horas. Despu¨¦s se aleja suavemente, desaparece para contar en el aire todo lo que le ha confiado la tierra en las fuentes de los perfumes del mundo¡±.
December 26, 2021
Interessante excursus nel mondo delle essenze, scritto da un responsabile dell'approvvigionamento e della ricerca delle materie prime di un'azienda produttrice di profumi. Per un neofita come me ¨¨ una lettura piacevole, probabilmente per chi ne sa gi¨¤ qualcosa potrebbe risultare un po' troppo superficiale in quanto non ci si addentra pi¨´ di tanto nei temi e i capitoli dedicati ad ogni materia prima sono piuttosto brevi, incentrati pi¨´ su un racconto di viaggio e di esperienze personali dell'autore.
January 22, 2025
I absolutely loved this book!
Exploring exotic places in search of the most authentic and aromatic perfume ingredients through the author¡¯s vivid storytelling gave similar vibes of Sir David Attenborough¡¯s adventures. What stood out to me most was the emphasis on the socio-economic challenges tied to the growing demand for natural ingredients and the importance of promoting sustainable and ethical harvesting practices.
Exploring exotic places in search of the most authentic and aromatic perfume ingredients through the author¡¯s vivid storytelling gave similar vibes of Sir David Attenborough¡¯s adventures. What stood out to me most was the emphasis on the socio-economic challenges tied to the growing demand for natural ingredients and the importance of promoting sustainable and ethical harvesting practices.
August 28, 2024
Utilizando el perfume y diferentes esencias naturales como hilo conductor, el autor nos transporta a rincones, mucho de ellos pr¨¢cticamente inexplorados, trabajados con t¨¦cnicas milenarias por los lugare?os y recolectores a los que el libro, justificadamente, rinde un precioso homenaje.
Todo un alegato ecologista que, al igual que un buen perfume, evoca tanto paisajes y rutas milenarias como a las gentes que los habitan y recorren y que nos cuenta como el amor por la naturaleza, es perfectamente compatible con la sabidur¨ªa con la que se explotan sus recursos.
Todo un alegato ecologista que, al igual que un buen perfume, evoca tanto paisajes y rutas milenarias como a las gentes que los habitan y recorren y que nos cuenta como el amor por la naturaleza, es perfectamente compatible con la sabidur¨ªa con la que se explotan sus recursos.
January 3, 2025
Utterly brilliant. A must read for any perfume enthusiast. A very enjoyable read about the sources of the ingredients used in perfumery. I feel like travelling to those places to see for myself
August 8, 2022
Thank you to Good Reading and Welbeck Publishing ANZ for my copy.
I really enjoyed this book about the quest for beautiful fragrances all over the world from different plants. The author is obviously passionate about plants, scents and the hardworking people that labour intensively, often for very little payment to harvest the ingredients for perfumes. Every detail is explained of the hard work that goes into growing, harvesting, extracting, distilling and much more to obtain what many people take for granted when they spray on a fragrance or light a candle or incense.
The entire book is also a history lesson about plants and the silk roads and spice routes of the world.
Never boring and very interesting reading about all the different techniques and I wish I could smell some of the fragrances so beautifully described.
Climate change is discussed as well as the exploitation of the plants and the people trying to earn a living from them. It was nice to read the chapter on Sandalwood as it grows in my home state of Western Australia. I must also add that the cover is stunning and caught my eye straight away.
Overall a great read and I think anyone that loves fragrance and plants would enjoy this book.
I really enjoyed this book about the quest for beautiful fragrances all over the world from different plants. The author is obviously passionate about plants, scents and the hardworking people that labour intensively, often for very little payment to harvest the ingredients for perfumes. Every detail is explained of the hard work that goes into growing, harvesting, extracting, distilling and much more to obtain what many people take for granted when they spray on a fragrance or light a candle or incense.
The entire book is also a history lesson about plants and the silk roads and spice routes of the world.
Never boring and very interesting reading about all the different techniques and I wish I could smell some of the fragrances so beautifully described.
Climate change is discussed as well as the exploitation of the plants and the people trying to earn a living from them. It was nice to read the chapter on Sandalwood as it grows in my home state of Western Australia. I must also add that the cover is stunning and caught my eye straight away.
Overall a great read and I think anyone that loves fragrance and plants would enjoy this book.
September 13, 2023
I found this such a fascinating read. Quite obsessed with perfume and reading the stories behind all the different natural scents that make up the greatest perfumes and how they are sourced was such an eye opener. Def gives an insight into why certain perfumes are so expensive because tons of rose petals go into making one kilo of rose oil or the trees that produce myrrh and frankincense are in a war torn or corrupt country that make supply uncertain. The book focuses on 16-17 different ingredients starting with flowers and moving on to woods. Almost all of them are found in third world countries where rainforests abound. I had never heard of Cistus which is not used for its flowers but the labdanum gum which it secretes and which has amber notes, that v¨¦tiver comes from the roots of a tropical grass, that the tonka bean doesn¡¯t smell of vanilla but ¡°at the intersection of tobacco, honey, vanilla and benzoin¡± and that oud from the aquilaria tree has an animalic scent evoking goats or cheese but when blended with other oils elevated and heightens them. There is a lot of name dropping but only the first name so I had to do a lot of googling - but I learnt a lot about master perfumers and their creations.
August 9, 2022
Perfume is a subjective treasure¡.we all have favourites, daily dabs, free samples and that sneaky spray as we stroll through an upmarket perfume department. But do we ever think about the ingredients and production methods of scents that transport us to another time, another place?
Dominique Roques works behind the scenes to connect the growers, producers and perfume houses of the world and has written a book about his travels. The anecdotal style makes you feel as if you are accompanying him¡.viewing the fragrant fields and orchards, yarning with families in the game for generations, dealing with success and failure, tragedy and joy.
It took me a while to fall into the rhythm of the book but each chapter told me new things and the photos of the artisans and labourers and the traditional implements of the trade were fascinating. I have a new respect for these bottles of delight and will look more closely into their provenance¡.particularly these days when we should all be a little kinder to the planet and those who provide us with so many things we take for granted.
Thanks to Good Reading Magazine and Welbeck Publishing for the preview copy.
Dominique Roques works behind the scenes to connect the growers, producers and perfume houses of the world and has written a book about his travels. The anecdotal style makes you feel as if you are accompanying him¡.viewing the fragrant fields and orchards, yarning with families in the game for generations, dealing with success and failure, tragedy and joy.
It took me a while to fall into the rhythm of the book but each chapter told me new things and the photos of the artisans and labourers and the traditional implements of the trade were fascinating. I have a new respect for these bottles of delight and will look more closely into their provenance¡.particularly these days when we should all be a little kinder to the planet and those who provide us with so many things we take for granted.
Thanks to Good Reading Magazine and Welbeck Publishing for the preview copy.
December 9, 2022
Following the sources for key parts of perfumes brings the reader to places which tend to be off the beaten trail. Somaliland, the country that isn't, is the source of the frankincense used in perfumes for example.
A town in Western Australia used to be the source of the magical pink diamond, until they ran out. What's next? How about sandalwood? Apparently the appearance of a competitor has pushed India to change its game.
So the information provided in this book on perfume is nothing to sniff at. Interest in the book should not just be those interested in perfume, travelers, too, should find places to investigate.
A town in Western Australia used to be the source of the magical pink diamond, until they ran out. What's next? How about sandalwood? Apparently the appearance of a competitor has pushed India to change its game.
So the information provided in this book on perfume is nothing to sniff at. Interest in the book should not just be those interested in perfume, travelers, too, should find places to investigate.
November 16, 2022
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July 2, 2024Colonialism is one hell of a drug. It may be worth a read if you love perfume and can tolerate a heavy-handed White Savior narrative.
November 25, 2023
This highly personal combination of memoir, travel experiences, history, and a gentle but insistent treatise on politics and environmental sustainability has been impeccably translated from the original French.
The author is a businessman whose work caused him to spend decades traversing both familiar and remote locations around the world sourcing the essential oils produced from trees and plants that create the world's most treasured and sophisticated fragrances. His travels took him to the places and resources most recognizable, such as the roses of Bulgaria, and lavender of Provence, to the most mysterious, such as the Amazon jungles of Venezuela for tonka beans, Laos for benzoin, and Madagascar for vanilla. Some of the places he visited could be physically or politically dangerous: Haiti for vetiver, Somaliland for frankincense.
It is an eye-opening and even mind-bending account that combines the details of the materials and production of these ingredients with the mystical and legendary allure of locations that are far from top of mind for most Westerners, but that doesn't stint on relating the dangers of exploitation of raw materials and the greed of those who profit from them ¨C he does not hesitate to comment on the contrast of the poverty of the workers in some of these places versus the governments and others who manipulate their natural resources as well as their people.
Despite that grounding in the disturbing realities of past colonialism and current profiteering in Africa, Asia, Caribbean and South America, the romantic allure, mysticism, and myth surrounding so many of the substances and extracts that he seeks, and the famous perfumes that are the result combine in the wonderful stories that the author tells. As he says in the prologue, "Perfumes are at once familiar to us, yet mysterious.", then goes on to mention the Diorissimo that his mother wore, and describes how scents immediately bring up some of our most familiar and meaningful memories. The stories of his wanders around the world, and his encounters with the producers of the raw materials create both fascinating and intoxicating reading. Highly recommend.
The author is a businessman whose work caused him to spend decades traversing both familiar and remote locations around the world sourcing the essential oils produced from trees and plants that create the world's most treasured and sophisticated fragrances. His travels took him to the places and resources most recognizable, such as the roses of Bulgaria, and lavender of Provence, to the most mysterious, such as the Amazon jungles of Venezuela for tonka beans, Laos for benzoin, and Madagascar for vanilla. Some of the places he visited could be physically or politically dangerous: Haiti for vetiver, Somaliland for frankincense.
It is an eye-opening and even mind-bending account that combines the details of the materials and production of these ingredients with the mystical and legendary allure of locations that are far from top of mind for most Westerners, but that doesn't stint on relating the dangers of exploitation of raw materials and the greed of those who profit from them ¨C he does not hesitate to comment on the contrast of the poverty of the workers in some of these places versus the governments and others who manipulate their natural resources as well as their people.
Despite that grounding in the disturbing realities of past colonialism and current profiteering in Africa, Asia, Caribbean and South America, the romantic allure, mysticism, and myth surrounding so many of the substances and extracts that he seeks, and the famous perfumes that are the result combine in the wonderful stories that the author tells. As he says in the prologue, "Perfumes are at once familiar to us, yet mysterious.", then goes on to mention the Diorissimo that his mother wore, and describes how scents immediately bring up some of our most familiar and meaningful memories. The stories of his wanders around the world, and his encounters with the producers of the raw materials create both fascinating and intoxicating reading. Highly recommend.
April 16, 2021
Enjoyable tour of the world of perfume and natural essences, and the plants they come from - c/o a master source-r of these for the major perfume houses.
It's interesting first because it often takes us to what often feel like obscure sources and plants - the perfumes of which and the names that we'll often know - but, in my case, having little idea of where they come from. Take bergamot, for example - from a bitter citrus fruit grown in southern Italy.
Perfume has always been globalised before 'globalisation' was an idea - going all the way back to oud and frankincense. What we see today is something that's even more so, and invariably hostage to heavy handed cultivation and processes that destroy the environment and shortcut on the 'correct', traditional methods of extracting an essence. And invariably, gangsters, corrupt intermediaries and, yup, inscrutable Chinese dealers are usually in the wings.
Along the way, we encounter entrepreneurs and purportedly more ethical growers,who are doubtless doing something of a better job at it. All the while, I did find myself feeling wary of the assorted French and American entrepreneur-growers in those distant places, who for me have that suspect air of the dodgy NGO rep in his small pond; who probably talks a great game about fair pay and traditional methods but is invariably going to be his own Kurz when the journalist has left. I don't know: I'm dubious about any Euro princeling who's spent too long in Thailand or Cambodia - there's something of the pith-helmeted missionary about the whole idea. I've come across too many of them on my travels.
Charming book though, all told - though a little exasperating, given the pretty unattractive trajectory of it all. I do love the historical nuggets it offers: the idea that Napolean was big into Oud, or that X perfume like patchouli became associated with bohemian living in the early twentieth century. Lots of good stories.
Nice little book. Great cover too. Some positive notes, but still retains the air of something a little rotten.
It's interesting first because it often takes us to what often feel like obscure sources and plants - the perfumes of which and the names that we'll often know - but, in my case, having little idea of where they come from. Take bergamot, for example - from a bitter citrus fruit grown in southern Italy.
Perfume has always been globalised before 'globalisation' was an idea - going all the way back to oud and frankincense. What we see today is something that's even more so, and invariably hostage to heavy handed cultivation and processes that destroy the environment and shortcut on the 'correct', traditional methods of extracting an essence. And invariably, gangsters, corrupt intermediaries and, yup, inscrutable Chinese dealers are usually in the wings.
Along the way, we encounter entrepreneurs and purportedly more ethical growers,who are doubtless doing something of a better job at it. All the while, I did find myself feeling wary of the assorted French and American entrepreneur-growers in those distant places, who for me have that suspect air of the dodgy NGO rep in his small pond; who probably talks a great game about fair pay and traditional methods but is invariably going to be his own Kurz when the journalist has left. I don't know: I'm dubious about any Euro princeling who's spent too long in Thailand or Cambodia - there's something of the pith-helmeted missionary about the whole idea. I've come across too many of them on my travels.
Charming book though, all told - though a little exasperating, given the pretty unattractive trajectory of it all. I do love the historical nuggets it offers: the idea that Napolean was big into Oud, or that X perfume like patchouli became associated with bohemian living in the early twentieth century. Lots of good stories.
Nice little book. Great cover too. Some positive notes, but still retains the air of something a little rotten.
February 4, 2025
My 5 Star ratings are reserved for well-written books that move me, teach me something new that I will be thinking about for a long time, or make me think about things in a new way. In Search of Perfumes: A Lifetime Journey to the Source of Nature's Scents is such a book. What a life Dominique Roques has lived! I'm so grateful he wrote this book to share his extensive knowledge about the sourcing and the real people who work so hard to give us the pure, natural ingredients that go into our favorite perfumes.
Dominique Roques, who has sourced essences and extracts for the perfume industry for over 30 years, gives the background and history of the industry's leading natural and precious ingredients. From lavender to damask rose, sandalwood, patchouli, Frankincense and Myrrh, Roques takes the reader into the exotic locations and ecosystems where these ingredients are found. We meet the farmers, the harvesters, the distillers, the creators and the marketers. A fascinating and well-written deep dive into the sources and history of each beloved scent that human-kind cherishes.
It's nice to know that currently, the fragrance industry is taking seriously the effects of years of over-harvesting certain plants/trees/ingredients, the effects of climate change, and acknowledging the fact that often the world's poorest peoples are harvesting these ingredients and starting to pay living wages, provide resources like schools and hospitals, and only sourcing ingredients that can be proven not to have been stolen or distorted. At least in the luxury fragrance sector. There is a long way to go, but it is heartening to know that some people realize the fragility of ecosystems that grow these valuable ingredients. If you've ever wanted to learn more about the perfume industry, this is a great resource. I only wish I had each scent to smell along with the text as I was reading!!
Dominique Roques, who has sourced essences and extracts for the perfume industry for over 30 years, gives the background and history of the industry's leading natural and precious ingredients. From lavender to damask rose, sandalwood, patchouli, Frankincense and Myrrh, Roques takes the reader into the exotic locations and ecosystems where these ingredients are found. We meet the farmers, the harvesters, the distillers, the creators and the marketers. A fascinating and well-written deep dive into the sources and history of each beloved scent that human-kind cherishes.
It's nice to know that currently, the fragrance industry is taking seriously the effects of years of over-harvesting certain plants/trees/ingredients, the effects of climate change, and acknowledging the fact that often the world's poorest peoples are harvesting these ingredients and starting to pay living wages, provide resources like schools and hospitals, and only sourcing ingredients that can be proven not to have been stolen or distorted. At least in the luxury fragrance sector. There is a long way to go, but it is heartening to know that some people realize the fragility of ecosystems that grow these valuable ingredients. If you've ever wanted to learn more about the perfume industry, this is a great resource. I only wish I had each scent to smell along with the text as I was reading!!
May 5, 2023
This was a fascinating and engrossing book that opened up the world of fragrances to me in ways that I had never considered before. Before this book I was the kind of person who sniffed a scent and then bought a fragrance based solely on the way it ¡®spoke to me¡¯. I never really thought of ¡®reading¡¯ it for the tones and notes that were the foundation of that scent. However, Roques¡¯ book has changed that, now I view smelling a perfume as something akin to tasting a fine wine. I want to see if I can spot what makes this fragrance work or see if I can discover how the scent of sandalwood blends with a Damask Rose vs that of a tonka bean. However, just hearing the names of these scents is not enough to appreciate the full power of this book, because the trials and travails that went into the gathering, processing, transporting and ultimately crafting that scent is a saga that held me spellbound within each chapter. Clearly and beautifully written, Roques invites you on a journey of discovery about more than just the scent, but shares a sense of awe at the full price that these fragrances cost. Before this book, I had never considered the toll that these ingredients take on the people that gather or distill them, nor the environmental price that is paid for fine scents that are combined in one small bottle. This book is an incredible read that will make you think twice about the price of a small vial of perfume, and wonder about the lives and stories of the people who gather these precious oils.
November 20, 2024
I usually keep my thoughts in my reading journal but this book irked me. Was it beautifully written? Yes. Did I enjoy learning about some technicalities about perfume? Absolutely, it's why I bought it in the first place. But there seemed to be a disregard towards the conditions in which these materials are gathered. In the chapter about Jasmine, there is mention and a photograph of Egyptian women with basketfuls of Jasmine blossoms they picked. Don't gloss over the difficulty of the handiwork or how they're not compensated enough for such hard work. We all love glamour and the shimmering side of the olfactory industry but give me substance and realness too, please. The industry is not very ethical, and while this book didn't have to be a resounding piece of watchdog journalism, it is still important to discuss these issues. But that's just my opinion <3
April 23, 2023
One of the most beautiful nonfictional books I've ever read, it is about the multiple journeys of a man who scouts natural ingredients for the perfume industry. From Seville to Calabria, from Venezuela to Somaliland, he shares his exploration of what seems to be a different world. On these journeys, he meets people and learns old techniques that will allow him to obtain the best raw materials for the world's top brands. Each story is fascinating and in some cases less glamorous than you would think. Sometimes he has to deal with changing agrarian laws and extreme poverty, local corruption, and family secrets. Each adventure in this memoir will leave the reader dumbstruck by its beauty and complexity.
A captivating and highly enjoyable read.
A captivating and highly enjoyable read.
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