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AAG: Are you familiar with the eating of the ortolan? OM: No. AAG: It’s an ancient rite of passage among French foodies. Ortolans are rare, tiny birds. The chef captures them, drowns them in Armagnac, and roasts them whole. Then the entire bird is eaten—feet first, bones included—with a linen napkin draped over the person’s head, to retain the aromas and, as the story goes, to hide from God. OM: This is what you do with Tamara? AAG: No, but that’s how I eat her pussy. OM: By drowning it in Armagnac? AAG: With a napkin over my head.